Traditional recipes

The James Beard Awards Aren’t Coming Back to New York Any Time Soon

The James Beard Awards Aren’t Coming Back to New York Any Time Soon

‘We are so proud to be welcoming this most prestigious of events for two more years,’ Chicago Mayor Rahm Emanuel announced

The James Beard Awards will remain in Chicago for the next two years.

The James Beard Awards will stay in Chicago through at least 2017, the James Beard Foundation announced today in a press release in partnership with Mayor Rahm Emanuel. On May 4, the award ceremony will be conducted outside New York City for the first time in its history, at the Lyric Opera House of Chicago.

“The entire city of Chicago has proven to be a generous and creative partner in planning this year’s awards,” said the foundation’s president, Susan Ungaro. “Returning for two more years is not only exciting, but offers continuity for even more opportunities for our foundation’s most important event of the year.”

Part of the decision to remain in Chicago is connected to Mayor Emanuel’s goal of attracting 55 million annual visitors to the city by 2020.

“Ever since we announced last year that Chicago would host the JBF Restaurant and Chef Awards Gala for its 25th anniversary, our great city has been electric with excitement and anticipation,” Mayor Emanuel said in a statement. “Chicago has a rich history with the Foundation, delivering restaurant and chef winners 23 out of 24 years with more than 40 James Beard Award winners to date. We are so proud to be welcoming this most prestigious of events for two more years.”


The James Beard Awards Aren’t Coming Back to New York Any Time Soon - Recipes

The James Beard Foundation Media & Book Awards, co-hosted by Kelly Choi and Andrew Zimmern, will take place Sunday, May 2nd at Espace on 42nd Street. Winners of the James Beard Foundation Awards will be announced on Monday, May 3rd at the Awards Ceremony at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center in New York City. Co-hosting this year&rsquos awards are Food Network star Alton Brown and prolific chefs/restaurateurs Lidia Bastianich and Wolfgang Puck. The Gala Reception will immediately follow the Awards Ceremony.

The Awards Ceremony and Gala Reception are open to the general public, and tickets can be purchased by calling the Awards Box Office at 212.925.0054 or by visiting www.JBFAwards.com.

Book Awards
Presented by Green & Black&rsquos® Organic Chocolate
For cookbooks published in English in 2009
Winners will be announced May 2, 2010

My New Orleans
by John Besh
(Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC)

Real Cajun
by Donald Link with Paula Disbrowe
(Clarkson Potter)

The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern: Knockout Dishes with Down-Home Flavor
by Matt Lee and Ted Lee
(Clarkson Potter)

Baking
by James Peterson
(Ten Speed Press)

Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology
by Randall Grahm
(University of California Press)

The King of Vodka: The Story of Pyotr Smirnov and the Upheaval of an Empire
by Linda Himelstein
(HarperBusiness)

World Whisky
by Charles Maclean
(DK Publishing)

Momofuku
by David Chang and Peter Meehan
(Clarkson Potter)

The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts
by The French Culinary Institute with Judith Choate
(Stewart, Tabori & Chang)

Salt to Taste: The Keys to Confident, Delicious Cooking
by Marco Canora with Catherine Young
(Rodale)

The Pleasures of Cooking for One
by Judith Jones
(Alfred A. Knopf)

EatingWell Comfort Foods Made Healthy
by Jesse Price and the Editors of EatingWell
(The Countryman Press)

Golden Door Cooks at Home: Favorite Recipes from the Celebrated Spa
by Dean Rucker with Marah Stets
(Clarkson Potter)

Love Soup: 160 All-New Vegetarian Recipes from the Author of The Vegetarian Epicure
by Anna Thomas
(W.W. Norton & Company)

The winner of Cookbook of the Year and the Cookbook Hall of Fame Inductee will be announced on May 2, 2010.

Broadcast Media Awards
Presented by Lenox Tableware and Gifts
For television, webcast, and radio programs aired in 2009.
Winners will be announced on May 2, 2010

Eight Forty-Eight
Hosts: Alison Cuddy and Richard Steele
Area: Chicago, Online
Producer: Aurora Aguilar

French Food at Home with Laura Calder
Host: Laura Calder
Network: Food Network Canada
Producer: Johanna Eliot

Iron Chef America
Host: Alton Brown
Network: Food Network
Producers: John Bravakis, Eytan Keller, Stephen Kroopnick, and Stu Schreiberg

The Best Thing I Ever Ate: Obsessions
Network: Food Network
Producers: David Hoffman, Lauren Lexton, Tom Rogan, and Eddie Saenz

Chefs A&rsquo Field: King of Alaska
Host: Rick Moonen
Network: PBS
Producers: Heidi Hanson and Chris Warner

Gourmet&rsquos Adventures with Ruth: The Bertinet Kitchen, Bath
Host: Ruth Reichl
Network: PBS
Producers: Christopher Collins, Deborah Hurley, and Lydia Tenaglia

Andrew Zimmern
Show: Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern
Network: The Travel Channel

Alton Brown
Show: Good Eats
Network: Food Network

Rick Bayless
Show: Mexico One Plate at a Time
Network: PBS

A Moveable Feast with America&rsquos Favorite Chefs
Hosts: José Andrés, Lidia Bastianich, Rick Bayless, Chris Kimball, Ruth Reichl, and Ming Tsai
Network: PBS
Producers: Anne Adams, Laurie Donnelly, and Deborah J. Hurley

Emeril Green: Emeril&rsquos Culinary Adventure: Napa
Host: Emeril Lagasse
Network: Planet Green
Producers: Dominique Andrews, Jim Brennan, Elina Brown, Karen Katz, Charissa Melnick, Marie Ostrosky, Amy Smolens, and Nancy Swenton

Food Trip with Todd English
Host: Todd English
Network: PBS
Producers: Matt Cohen, Joel Colblenz, Todd English, and Gina Gargano

ABC News Nightline
Host: John Berman
Network: ABC
Producer: Sarah Rosenberg

Chronicle
Hosts: Anthony Everett, Mary Richardson
Network: WCVB-TV Boston
Producers: Chris Stirling and Stan Leven

ABC 7 News Friday Night Special: Hungry Hound
Host: Steve Dolinsky
Network: ABC
Producer: Badriyyah Waheed

Always Hungry Video
Alwayshungryny.com/videos
Host: Jeff Zalaznick
Producers: Jamie Meyer, Jeff Zalaznick

Food. Curated.
Foodcurated.com
Host: Liza de Guia
Producer: Liza de Guia

The Greenmarket: One Farmer&rsquos Story
Seriouseats.com
Producers: Serious Eats, Optic Nerve

Design and Graphics Awards
Winners will be announced on May 3, 2010

Design Firm: Evan Douglis Studio
Designer: Evan Douglis
Project: Choice Market, Brooklyn, NY

Design Firm: Project M
Designer: John Bielenberg
Project: PieLab, Greensboro, AL

Design Firm: Andre Kikoski Architect
Designers: Adam Darter, Liam Harris, Gunnar Jung, Brian Lewis, and Andre Kikoski
Project: The Wright, NYC

Design Firm: Korn Design
Designers: Javier Cortés, Denise Korn, Melissa Wehrman, and Ben Whitla
Project: Mercat a la Planxa, Chicago

Design Firm: Pandiscio Co.
Project: The Standard Grill, NYC

Designer: Steven Solomon
Project: Terroir, NYC

Journalism Awards
For articles published in English in 2009
Winners will be announced on May 2, 2010

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
&ldquoSauced,&rdquo &ldquoHot Birria, Cold Cerveza,&rdquo
&ldquoHare Today&rdquo

Patric Kuh
Los Angeles
&ldquoBorder Crossing,&rdquo &ldquoPeru Calling,&rdquo
&ldquoThe Classic&rdquo

Jason Sheehan
Westword
&ldquoWhite on White,&rdquo &ldquoWonderland,&rdquo &ldquoMourning&rdquo

Grub Street New York
Aileen Gallagher, Daniel Maurer, Alexandra Vallis
Newyork.grubstreet.com

Serious Eats
Ed Levine
Seriouseats.com

Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
Hank Shaw
Honest-Food.net

Colman Andrews
Gourmet
Column: Good Living Restaurants
&ldquoVeni Vidi Vetri,&rdquo &ldquoIt's Up to You, New York, New York,&rdquo &ldquoSmoke and Miracles&rdquo

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl
Minnesota Monthly
&ldquoThe Doughnut Gatherer,&rdquo &ldquoCapital Grills,&rdquo &ldquoPizza Perfect&rdquo

Rachel Wharton
Edible Brooklyn
Column: Back of the House
&ldquoEgg,&rdquo &ldquoRoberta&rsquos,&rdquo &ldquoFranny&rsquos and Bklyn Larder&rdquo

Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoAmerican Pie&rdquo

Anya von Bremzen
Saveur
&ldquoSoul of a City&rdquo

Francis Lam
Gourmet
&ldquoThe Last Chinese BBQ&rdquo

Dana Bowen
Saveur
&ldquoThe Wonders of Ham&rdquo

Francine Maroukian, Jon Reiner, Staff of Esquire
Esquire
&ldquoHow Men Eat&rdquo

Matt Goulding
Men&rsquos Health
&ldquoThe Beauty of the Beast&rdquo

Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoHillbilly Truffle&rdquo

Barry Estabrook
Gourmet
&ldquoThe Price of Tomatoes&rdquo

Raffi Khatchadourian
The New Yorker
&ldquoThe Taste Makers&rdquo

John T. Edge
The Oxford American
&ldquoIn Through the Back Door&rdquo

Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoLe Petit Gourmet&rdquo

Francine Prose
Saveur
&ldquoFaith and Bacon&rdquo

Antoinette Bruno, Amanda McDougall, and Jonathan J. Proville
Starchefs.com
&ldquoThe Art and Economics of Charcuterie, Parts 2, 3, 4&rdquo

Kevin Pang
Chicagotribune.com
&ldquoThe Cheeseburger Show&rdquo

Robb Walsh
Houstonpress.com
&ldquoNot So Clear Cut&rdquo

Tim Carman
Washington City Paper
&ldquoHow Not to Hire a Chef/The Canning Process&rdquo

Jared Jacang Maher
Westword
&ldquoA Hunger to Help&rdquo

Kevin Pang
Chicago Tribune
&ldquoPlan D&rdquo

Sarah DiGregorio
The Village Voice
&ldquoLiver and Let Liver&rdquo

Cliff Doerksen
Chicago Reader
&ldquoThe Real American Pie&rdquo

Mike Sula
Chicago Reader
&ldquoThe Charcuterie Underground&rdquo

The Boston Globe
Sheryl Julian

San Francisco Chronicle
Jon Bonné and Miriam Morgan

The Washington Post
Joe Yonan

Monica Eng
Chicago Tribune
&ldquoNacho Lunch? Yes, Every Day&rdquo

Daniel Engber
Slate
&ldquoThrowing Out the Wheat&rdquo

Rowan Jacobsen
EatingWell
&ldquo&hellipOr Not to Bee&rdquo

Chow.com
Jane Goldman

Epicurious.com
Tanya W. Steel

Saveur.com
James Oseland

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl
Minnesota Monthly
&ldquoChardonnay Uncorked&rdquo

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
&ldquoThe New Cocktailians&rdquo

Lettie Teague
Food & Wine
&ldquoIs Grüner a Great Wine or a Groaner&rdquo

Restaurant and Chef Awards
Winners will be announced on May 3, 2010

Bibou
Philadelphia
Chefs/Owners: Pierre and Charlotte Calmels

Flour + Water
San Francisco
Chef/Partner: Thomas McNaughton
Partners: David White and David Steele

Frances
San Francisco
Chef/Owner: Melissa Perello

Locanda Verde
NYC
Chef/Owner: Andrew Carmellini

Marea
NYC
Chef/Partner: Michael White
Partner: Chris Cannon

RN74
San Francisco
Chef: Jason Berthold
Owners: Michael Mina and Rajat Parr

José Andrés
Minibar
Washington, D.C.

Tom Colicchio
Craft
NYC

Gary Danko
Restaurant Gary Danko
San Francisco

Suzanne Goin
Lucques
Los Angeles

Charles Phan
The Slanted Door
San Francisco

Amanda Cook
CityZen at
Mandarin Oriental
Washington, D.C.

Michelle Gayer
Salty Tart Bakery
Minneapolis

Kamel Guechida
Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand Hotel & Casino
Las Vegas

Nicole Plue
Redd
Yountville, CA

Mindy Segal
Mindy&rsquos HotChocolate
Chicago

Babbo
NYC
Chef/Owner: Mario Batali
Owner: Joseph Bastianich

Boulevard
San Francisco
Chef/Owner: Nancy Oakes
Owner: Pat Kuleto

Daniel
NYC
Chef/Owner: Daniel Boulud

Highlands Bar & Grill
Birmingham, AL
Chef/Owner: Frank Stitt
Owner: Pardis Stitt

Spiaggia
Chicago
Chef/Partner: Tony Mantuano

Tom Douglas
Dahlia Bakery, Dahlia Lounge, Etta&rsquos, Lola, Palace Kitchen, Serious Pie
Seattle

Pat Kuleto
Boulevard, Epic, Farallon, Jardinière, Martini House, Nick's Cove & Cottages, and Waterbar
San Francisco

Keith McNally
Balthazar, Lucky Strike, Minetta Tavern, Morandi, Pastis, Pravda, and Schiller&rsquos Liquor Bar
NYC

Richard Melman
Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises
Chicago

Stephen Starr
Starr Restaurant Organization
Philadelphia

Alinea
Chicago
Chef/Owner: Grant Achatz

Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand Hotel & Casino
Las Vegas
Chef/Owner: Joël Robuchon

La Grenouille
NYC
Owners: Charles Masson and Gisèle Masson

Michael Mina
San Francisco
Chef/Owner: Michael Mina

Vetri
Philadelphia
Chefs/Owners: Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin

Merry Edwards
Merry Edwards Wines
Sebastopol, CA

Paul Grieco
Hearth
NYC

Garrett Oliver
The Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY

Timothy Hollingsworth
The French Laundry
Yountville, CA

Johnny Monis
Komi
Washington, D.C.

Grégory Pugin
Veritas
NYC

Gabriel Rucker
Le Pigeon
Portland, OR

Sue Zemanick
Gautreau&rsquos
New Orleans

Michael Carlson
Schwa
Chicago

Koren Grieveson
Avec
Chicago

Arun Sampanthavivat
Arun&rsquos
Chicago

Bruce Sherman
North Pond
Chicago

Alex Young
Zingerman's Roadhouse
Ann Arbor, MI

Cathal Armstrong
Restaurant Eve
Alexandria, VA

Jeff Michaud
Osteria
Philadelphia

Peter Pastan
Obelisk
Washington, D.C.

Michael Solomonov
Zahav
Philadelphia

Bryan Voltaggio
Volt
Frederick, MD

Isaac Becker
112 Eatery
Minneapolis

Gerard Craft
Niche
St. Louis

Colby Garrelts
Bluestem
Kansas City, MO

Alexander Roberts
Restaurant Alma
Minneapolis

Lenny Russo
Heartland
St. Paul, MN

Michael Anthony
Gramercy Tavern

Wylie Dufresne
WD-50

Gabrielle Hamilton
Prune

Daniel Humm
Eleven Madison Park

Michael White
Marea

Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier
Arrows
Ogunquit, ME

Peter X. Kelly
Xaviar&rsquos at Piermont
Piermont, NY

Michael Leviton
Lumière
West Newton, MA

Naomi Pomeroy
Beast
Portland, OR

Andy Ricker
Pok Pok
Portland, OR

Ethan Stowell
Union
Seattle

Michael Cimarusti
Providence
Los Angeles

Jeremy Fox
Ubuntu
Napa, CA

David Kinch
Manresa
Los Gatos, CA

Zach Bell
Café Boulud at the Brazilian Court
Palm Beach, FL

Scott Boswell
Stella!
New Orleans

John Harris
Lilette
New Orleans

Hugh Acheson
Five and Ten
Athens, GA

Sean Brock
McCrady&rsquos
Charleston, SC

Linton Hopkins
Restaurant Eugene
Atlanta

Bryan Caswell
Reef
Houston

Saipin Chutima
Lotus of Siam
Las Vegas

Ryan Hardy
Montagna at the Little Nell
Aspen, CO

Rick Moonen
RM Seafood at Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino
Las Vegas

Who&rsquos Who of Food & Beverage in America Inductees

Leah Chase
Chef/Owner, Dooky Chase Restaurant, New Orleans
Leah Chase has lived in Louisiana her entire life, moving to New Orleans when she was 14 years old. Her first job out of school was at the Oriental Laundry in the French Quarter. A week later, Chase was hired by the Colonial Restaurant on Chartres Street and she has been in the restaurant industry ever since. Chase married a musician whose family owned the Dooky Chase Restaurant. Once her children were old enough to attend school, Chase began to work at the restaurant three days a week. She started out as a hostess, but she was soon redecorating the restaurant and working as its chef. She eventually revamped the menu to reflect her Creole background. After Hurricane Katrina destroyed much of Dooky Chase&rsquos 5th Ward location in 2005, the restaurant community got together to host a benefit in 82-year-old Chase&rsquos honor. The guests raised $40,000, and Dooky Chase reopened in 2007 mostly for take-out food and special events. Chase is also a cooking show host and cookbook author.

Jessica B. Harris
Author and Historian, NYC
Jessica B. Harris is the author of eight critically acclaimed cookbooks documenting the foods and foodways of the African diaspora. A culinary historian and tenured professor, she has lectured on the subject at numerous institutions and colleges throughout the United States and abroad. As a journalist Harris served as a restaurant reviewer for The Village Voice and has written extensively about the culture of Africa in the Americas, particularly the foodways, for publications ranging from Essence (where she was travel editor from 1977&ndash1980) to German Vogue. She has also written for many major food magazines including Gourmet and Food & Wine. Harris has been a national board member of the American Institute of Wine & Food, a founding member and board member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, and a board member of the Caribbean Culinary Federation.

Paul C. P. McIlhenny
President and CEO, McIlhenny Company, Avery Island, LA
Paul C. P. McIlhenny is the fourth generation of McIlhennys to produce Tabasco® brand pepper sauce, which is found in kitchen cupboards and at countless restaurants and diners throughout the United States and abroad. As were his forebears, he is directly involved in overseeing and maintaining the quality of all products under the 136-year-old Tabasco® brand. Today, McIlhenny Company sells Tabasco® brand products in more than 160 countries and territories around the world in 21 different languages and dialects. McIlhenny is also the author of The 125th Anniversary Tabasco® Cookbook.

David Rockwell
Founder and CEO, Rockwell Group, NYC
David Rockwell grew up in Chicago, Deal, New Jersey, and Guadalajara, Mexico. When he was a child, his mother, a dancer and choreographer, would cast him in community repertory productions. He brought his passion for theater, eye for color, and the spectacle of Mexico to his architecture studies at Syracuse University and, later, to his firm, Rockwell Group. Based in New York City, the group specializes in culture, hospitality, retail, theater, and film design. Recent restaurant projects include Nobu and Nobu 57 (New York and worldwide), Pod (Philadelphia), Roppongi Hills (Tokyo), and Maze (London). Rockwell is Chairman of the Board at the Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS (DIFFA) and is on the boards of the Public Theater and Citymeals-on-Wheels. He received a Presidential Design Award for his Grand Central Terminal renovation in 2000.

L. Timothy Ryan
President, Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY
Tim Ryan graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1977 and was the first alumnus and faculty member to rise through the ranks to become the institution&rsquos president. As the CIA&rsquos fifth president, Ryan has been an integral part in the American food movement, launching several new programs including the world&rsquos first bachelor's degrees in culinary arts and baking & pastry arts management, a highly successful publishing program, and award-winning videos and television shows. He has also dramatically expanded the college's continuing education programs.

Susan Spicer
Chef/Owner, Bayona, New Orleans
Susan Spicer began her cooking career at the Louis XVI Restaurant in New Orleans in 1979. After a four-month stint at the restaurant, Spicer lived in Paris and California, but eventually came back to New Orleans, where she opened Bistro at Maison deVille at the Hotel Maison deVille in 1986. In the spring of 1990, Spicer and Regina Keever opened Bayona in a 200-year-old cottage in the French Quarter. From 1997 to 1999, Spicer owned and operated Spice, Inc, a specialty market with take-out food, cooking classes, and a bakery. In 2000, Spicer and three partners opened Herbsaint, a casual restaurant in the Warehouse district of New Orleans. She is a recipient of numerous awards, including the 1993 James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Southeast. Spicer is also a cookbook author and an occasional judge on Iron Chef America.

America&rsquos Classics Awards
Presented by The Coca&ndashCola Company
Restaurants with timeless appeal, beloved in their regions for quality food that reflects the character of their community. Establishments must have been in existence at least 10 years and be locally owned.

Al&rsquos French Frys
1251 Williston Road, South Burlington, VT
Owners: Bill Bissonette and Lee Bissonette

Founded by Al and Genevieve Rusterholz in the late 1940s, Al's French Frys was originally housed in a small hut, open to the elements. Many Chittenden Countians encountered Al&rsquos French Frys stand at the Champlain Valley Fair, where they earned a reputation that has endured for more than a half-century.

Al&rsquos is now owned by the Bissonette family, headed by Bill Bissonette, who revealed part of the restaurant&rsquos secret when he told a local paper that he starts with Idaho or California russets and fries them twice in a combination of beef tallow and soy bean oil at between 300 and 400 degrees for a total of about seven minutes.
There are always lines at Al&rsquos, night and day. You can order a pint, or the vastly more popular quart size. The pleasure of uttering the words &ldquoAnd a quart of fries with that,&rdquo is one of the chief charms of Al&rsquos.

The fries boast a dark and crackly exterior. Creamy white potato fluff lurks within. Al&rsquos fries are a benchmark and a bulwark against devolution, in a world where chefs who should know better resort to frozen, cotton-flannel fries, or moan about what a pain and torment it is to cook French fries from scratch. &mdashAlison Cook, Restaurant Critic, Houston Chronicle

The Bright Star
304 19th St. North, Bessemer, AL
Owners: Jimmy Koikos and Nicky Koikos

A clump of feta, tucked in a salad of iceberg and cucumbers. A stipple of oregano on a broiled snapper fillet. At the Bright Star in Bessemer, Alabama, an old steel town southwest of Birmingham, the vestiges of Greece are few.

Greek immigrants built the Bright Star, a vintage dining hall of intricately patterned tile floors, nicotine-patinaed woodwork, WPA-era murals of the old country, and brass chandeliers.

The Bright Star opened in 1907. Descendants of Bright Star founding fathers&mdashTom Bonduris and his cousin Bill Koikos, natives of the farming village of Peleta in the mountainous Peloponnesus region &mdashstill work the floor. Jimmy Koikos, a septuagenarian, and brother Nicky, seven years his junior, are in charge now.
The menu is an honest&mdashand very old&mdashfusion, Greek meets Southern, as interpreted by African American cooks: fried red snapper throats, house-cut from whole Gulf fish, are on the menu. Okra in a cornmeal crust, too. And field peas with snaps.

In the Birmingham area, many of the best barbecue and meat-and-three restaurants are Greek owned. And the Bright Star is the oldest and most storied of the bunch. &mdashJohn T. Edge, Director, Southern Foodways Alliance

Calumet Fisheries
3259 E 95th Street, Chicago
Owners: The Kotlick and Toll Families

Chicago&rsquos 95th Street Bridge, which spans the Calumet River on the city&rsquos South Side, is known for two things: One, in the movie The Blues Brothers, Elwood demonstrated the capabilities of his new car by jumping the bridge. Two, it&rsquos the home of Calumet Fisheries, a stand-alone hutch that has been frying and smoking seafood since 1948, when brothers-in-law Sid Kotlick and Len Toll opened the place.

To this day, the Kotlick and Toll families run the joint. It&rsquos strictly carryout. No seating, no bathroom, no credit cards. And, if you believe the ominous street sign, no parking.

The place draws a working-class, melting-pot crowd, and a fair number of amateur fishermen. (The murky Calumet is a good place to find bluegill.) Fried perch, smelts, and frogs&rsquo legs are big here, but they also bring in scallops, crab, catfish, and oysters.

The fried stuff is very good, but what you really want is the smoked fish, smoldering in the bunker-like smokehouse around back. Salmon steaks, shrimp, chubs, and trout, all kissed with wood and cooked with care. &mdashPhil Vettel, Restaurant Critic, Chicago Tribune

Gustavus Inn
PO Box 60, Gustavus, AK
Owners: JoAnn and David Lesh

Three generations of the Lesh family have welcomed guests to this farmhouse at the edge of a meadow overlooking Alaska's Icy Strait.

Jack and Sally Lesh started the inn in 1965, operating it as a drop-in restaurant, grocery store, and hotel. For many years it was also the town&rsquos weather station, airline counter, and radio and telephone contact. From 1976-79 their daughter Sal and husband Tom McLaughlin continued these services, supporting the crew building nearby Glacier Bay Lodge.

Dave and JoAnn Lesh took over as innkeepers in 1980 and raised their three sons there. Over the years, the town has acquired power, phones, and city status allowing the Gustavus Inn to rely more on serving tourists to Glacier Bay National Park during the summer months.
Supper is served family style and usually features local catches like Dungeness crab, salmon, halibut, and sablefish, as well as produce from the Inn&rsquos munificent garden. Despite the challenges of a short growing season, that garden produces berries, potatoes, rhubarb, myriad greens, and edible flowers.

In addition to just-caught seafood, the Inn is known for sourdough pancakes with homemade spruce tip syrup and Halibut Caddy Ganty, often called Halibut Olympia, a rich mix of fish cooked with onions, sour cream, and mayonnaise. &mdashProvidence Cicero, Restaurant Critic and Food Writer, Seattle Times

Mary & Tito&rsquos Cafe
2711 Fourth St. N.W., Albuquerque, NM
Owners: Mary Gonzales and Antoinette Knight

Carne adovada&mdashlong-braised pork in red chile sauce&mdashmight be the most characteristic of New Mexico&rsquos robust and deceptively simple dishes. New Mexicans argue the merits of various carne adovada preparations statewide, but aficionados nearly always rank Mary & Tito&rsquos tops. The Gonzales family serves the fork-tender meat as the centerpiece of a plate, in overstuffed burritos, and also as a filling for enchiladas and empanadas.

Native New Mexicans and husband and wife team Mary and Tito Gonzales started their adobe cafe just north of downtown Albuquerque in 1963. Tito was the original cook and creator of the recipes. When he passed away, Mary hired more cooks and continued to run the front of the house, oversee the business, and raise their family.

From the worn but clean booths, tables, and a handful of counter stools, diners gaze over family and patron photos, the kids&rsquo and grandkids&rsquo sports trophies, and other mementos of family accomplishments.

Now past 80, Mary still comes in daily to greet old friends and new, while her daughter Antoinette manages the cafe. Other daughters help out too, and various grandchildren wait tables when they&rsquore not in school. &mdashCheryl Jamison, Cookbook Author and Food Writer

Lifetime Achievement Award Recipients: Ariane and Michael Batterberry

Legendary leaders in their field, Ariane and Michael Batterberry have founded two milestone national food magazines: Food Arts, the influential, award-winning publication for the restaurant and hotel trades that has won a number of the coveted Folio Gold &ldquoEddie&rdquo B2B awards, and Food & Wine, a leading consumer publication. Pioneers in electronic food publishing as well, they created the top rated computerized &ldquomagazine&rdquo Dining In for Time Inc. in the early 1980s. Singly or together, they are the authors of 18 books on food, art, and social history, and they have contributed a quarterly food trends column to U.S.A. Today. The Batterberrys&rsquo awards and citations include both the James Beard Foundation&rsquos Who&rsquos Who in Food & Beverage in America and Editors of the Year, the International Food & Beverage Forum&rsquos Hall of Fame, Distinguished Restaurants of North America (DiRoNA) Honorary Hall of Fame, the Culinary Institute of America&rsquos Masters of Hospitality award, and the Madrid Fusión award, presented by the mayor of Madrid, for having propelled the course of the American food revolution. Michael has appeared often on national and international TV as a commentator on culinary and restaurant business trends and has performed as introductory host to the Public Television series Rising Star Chefs.

Humanitarian of the Year: Wayne Kostroski Presented by Louisiana Department of Culture, Recreation & Tourism

Wayne Kostroski founded the Taste of the NFL in 1992 in an effort to create a national platform that addresses the needs of the hungry and homeless by raising awareness and money through special events and programs. Through the hard work and dedication of hundreds of volunteers, the Taste of the NFL&rsquos Party With A Purpose event takes place each year on the eve of the Super Bowl. At the ticketed Party With A Purpose, thirty-two of the finest chefs from around the country (one from each NFL city) serve up their signature specialties alongside a current, Hall of Fame, or alumni player from each of the NFL teams, with 100 percent of the event&rsquos proceeds going to support local and national hunger organizations. Since its inception, the Taste of the NFL has distributed in excess of $9 million. The organization has also drafted a dozen NFL teams to create and execute events in their own cities to benefit local food banks these events have generated more than $4 million to date.


The James Beard Awards Aren’t Coming Back to New York Any Time Soon - Recipes

Broadcast Media Awards
Presented by Viking Range Corporation
For television, webcast, and radio programs aired in 2008.

AUDIO WEBCAST OR RADIO SHOW

Living Today, Martha Stewart Living Radio: José Andrés
Host: Mario Bosquez
Area: Nationwide U.S.
Producers: Naomi Gabay and Lauren Gould
Graperadio.com: Thomas Jefferson and Wine
Hosts: Ted M. Burns, Brian Clark, Eric Anderson, and Jay Selman
Area: Online
Producer: Jay Selman
WNYC, The Leonard Lopate Show: 3-Ingredient Challenge
Hosts: Leonard Lopate and Rozanne Gold
Area: New York City Metro, Online
Producer: Sarah English

VIDEO WEBCAST
Obsessives: School Lunch Revolutionary
Chow.com
Producers: Meredith Arthur and Eric Slatkin
The Art of Blending
Hosts: Brian Clark, Eric Anderson, and Jay Selman
Graperadio.com
Producers: Jay Selman and Mark Ryan
Savoring the Best of World Flavors, Volume III: Vietnam and the Island of Sicily
Host: Jonathan Coleman
Ciaprochef.com/WCA3/
Producers: John Barkley, Kenneth Wilmoth, Greg Drescher, Steve Jilleba, and Janet Fletcher

TELEVISION FOOD SHOW, NATIONAL AND LOCAL

Lidia's Italy: Sweet Napoli
Host: Lidia Matticchio Bastianich
Network: PBS
Producers: Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, Julia Harrison, and Shelly Burgess Nicotra
The Château Dinner: A French Food at
Home Special with Laura Calder

Host: Laura Calder
Network: Food Network Canada
Producers: Johanna Eliot and Dugald McLaren
We Live to Eat: New Orleans' Love Affair with Food
Network: PBS
Producers: Kevin McCaffrey, e/Prime Media, and the Historic New Orleans Collection

TELEVISION FOOD SEGMENT, NATIONAL AND LOCAL
ABC News, Nightline: Platelist
Hosts: Martin Bashir, Cynthia McFadden, and Terry Moran
Network: ABC
Producer: Sarah Rosenberg
CBS News Sunday Morning: In a Pinch
Host: Martha Teichner
Network: CBS
Producers: Jon Carras and David Small
ABC 7 News Friday Night Special: Hungry Hound
Host: Steve Dolinsky
Network: ABC
Producer: Badriyyah Waheed

Journalism Awards
For articles published in English in 2008.

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING ABOUT RESTAURANTS AND/OR CHEFS

Monica Eng, Phil Vettel
Chicago Tribune
&ldquoBig Night. Big Mystery: Why Did Michael Carlson Vanish the Day After Serving Dinner to the Greatest Chefs in the World?&rdquo
Katy McLaughlin
The Wall Street Journal
&ldquoSushi Bullies&rdquo
Tom Sietsema
The Washington Post
&ldquoSound Check&rdquo

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING WITHOUT RECIPES
Monica Eng
Chicago Tribune
&ldquoMorality Bites: Mustering Some Sympathy for the Bedeviled Ham and Beef&rdquo
Kristen Hinman
Riverfront Times
&ldquoThe Pope of Pork&rdquo
Craig LaBan
The Philadelphia Inquirer
&ldquoThe Tender and the Tough&rdquo

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING WITH RECIPES
Rebekah Denn
Seattle Post-Intelligencer
&ldquoHigh on the Hairy Hogs: Super-Succulent Imports are Everything U.S. Pork Isn't&rdquo
David Leite
The New York Times
&ldquoPerfection? Hint: It&rsquos Warm and Has a Secret&rdquo
Kathleen Purvis
The Charlotte Observer
&ldquoThe Belly of the Beast&rdquo

NEWSPAPER FOOD SECTION
Chicago Tribune
Carol Mighton Haddix
San Francisco Chronicle
Jon Bonné and Miriam Morgan
The Washington Post
Joe Yonan

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING ABOUT RESTAURANTS AND/OR CHEFS
Ruth Reichl
Gourmet
&ldquoThe Last Time I Saw Paris. &rdquo
Alan Richman
Departures
&ldquoEating Small in New York&rdquo
Anya von Bremzen
Food & Wine
&ldquoThe Grilling Genius of Spain&rdquo

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING WITH RECIPES
Edna Lewis
Gourmet
&ldquoWhat is Southern?&rdquo*
*published posthumously
David Dobbs
Recipes by John Ash
EatingWell
&ldquoThe Wild Salmon Debate: A Fresh Look at Whether Eating Farmed Salmon is. Well. OK&rdquo
James Peterson
Saveur
&ldquoMother Sauce: The Ancient Art of the Saucier is Alive and Well in the Kitchens of Paris and Beyond&rdquo

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING WITHOUT RECIPES
Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoMade (Better) in Japan&rdquo
Patricia Sharpe and the staff members of Texas Monthly Magazine
Texas Monthly
&ldquoBBQ 08 (The Top 50 BBQ Joints in Texas)&rdquo
Monique Truong
Gourmet
&ldquoMy Cherry Amour&rdquo

RESTAURANT REVIEWS
Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
&ldquoA Proper Brasserie,&rdquo &ldquoA Fine Palate,&rdquo &ldquoPho Town&rdquo
Adam Platt
New York Magazine
&ldquoFaux French,&rdquo &ldquoThe Mario of Midtown,&rdquo &ldquoCorton on Hudson&rdquo
Tom Sietsema
The Washington Post
&ldquoGreat Expectations,&rdquo &ldquoRobo Restaurant,&rdquo &ldquoAn Earned Exclamation&rdquo

REPORTING ON NUTRITION OR FOOD-RELATED CONSUMER ISSUES
Barry Estabrook
Gourmet
&ldquoGreens of Wrath&rdquo
Mark Adams, Amanda Fortini, Melissa Kirsch, Josh Ozersky, Rob Patronite, Adam Platt, and Robin Raisfeld
New York Magazine
&ldquoWhat Good is Breakfast?&rdquo
Rachael Moeller Gorman
EatingWell
&ldquoHow to Feed Your Mind&rdquo

BLOG FOCUSING ON FOOD, BEVERAGE, RESTAURANTS, OR NUTRITION
Andrew Knowlton
The BA Foodist
Bonappetit.com
Hank Shaw
Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
Honest-food.net
Erika Ehmsen, Elizabeth Jardina, Rick LaFrentz, Amy Machnak, Johanna Silver, Margaret Sloan, and Margo True
Our One-Block Diet
Oneblockdiet.sunset.com

FOOD-RELATED COLUMNS
Dorie Greenspan
Bon Appétit
&ldquoBacon-Cheddar Quick Bread,&rdquo &ldquoAll-Purpose Holiday Cake,&rdquo &ldquoMy Go-To Dough&rdquo
Corby Kummer
The Atlantic
&ldquoA Papaya Grows in Holyoke,&rdquo &ldquoBeyond the McIntosh,&rdquo &ldquoHalf a Loaf&rdquo
Laura Shapiro
Gourmet.com
&ldquoCampaign Cookies,&rdquo &ldquoWhy Does America Hate Ratatouille?,&rdquo &ldquoThe Lord is my Chef&rdquo

WRITING ON SPIRITS, WINE, OR BEER
Jon Bonné
San Francisco Chronicle
&ldquoRevolution by the Glass&rdquo
Jay McInerney
Men's Vogue
&ldquoBillionaire Winos&rdquo
Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoViva La Revolucion!&rdquo

WEBSITE FOCUSING ON FOOD, BEVERAGE, RESTAURANTS, OR NUTRITION
Chow.com
Jane Goldman
Epicurious.com
Tanya Steel
Gourmet.com
Ruth Reichl

MULTIMEDIA FOOD JOURNALISM
Ruth Reichl
Gourmet.com
&ldquoGourmet Cookbook Club&rdquo
Ruth Reichl
Gourmet.com
&ldquoThe Test Kitchen&rdquo
Mike Sula
Chicagoreader.com
&ldquoThe Whole Hog Project&rdquo

M.F.K. FISHER DISTINGUISHED WRITING AWARD
Celia Barbour
O, The Oprah Magazine
&ldquoKnead, Pray, Love&rdquo
Aleksandra Crapanzano
Gourmet
&ldquoBenedictions&rdquo
Alan Richman
GQ
&ldquoMy Sweet Life&rdquo

Books
Presented by Green & Black's® Organic Chocolate
For cookbooks published in English in 2008.

COOKBOOK OF THE YEAR

Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient,with Recipes
Author: Jennifer McLagan
Publisher: Ten Speed Press

GENERAL COOKING
Jane Grigson for her entire body of work, including:
The Art of Charcuterie, Good Things, Jane Grigson&rsquos Vegetable Book, The Mushroom Feast, and English Food

AMERICAN COOKING
Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited
by Arthur Schwartz
(Ten Speed Press)
Cooking Up a Storm: Recipes Lost and Found from The Times-Picayune of New Orleans
Edited by: Marcelle Bienvenu and Judy Walker
(Chronicle Books)
Screen Doors and Sweet Tea: Recipes and Tales from a Southern Cook
by Martha Hall Foose
(Clarkson Potter)

BAKING
Bakewise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking
by Shirley O. Corriher
(Scribner)
Baking for All Occasions: A Treasury of Recipes for Everyday Celebrations
by Flo Braker
(Chronicle Books)
The Art and Soul of Baking
by Cindy Mushet, Sur La Table
(Andrews McMeel Publishing)

BEVERAGE
The Harney and Sons Guide to Tea
by Michael Harney with Emily Kaiser
(The Penguin Press)
The Wines of Burgundy
by Clive Coates
(University of California Press)
WineWise: Your Complete Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Enjoying Wine
by Steven Kolpan, Brian H. Smith, and Michael A. Weiss, The Culinary Institute of America
(John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)

COOKING FROM A PROFESSIONAL POINT OF VIEW
Alinea
by Grant Achatz
(Achatz LLC/Ten Speed Press)
The Big Fat Duck Cookbook
by Heston Blumenthal
(Bloomsbury USA)
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
by Thomas Keller
(Artisan)

GENERAL COOKING
How to Cook Everything (Completely Revised Tenth Anniversary Edition)
by Mark Bittman
(John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)
Martha Stewart&rsquos Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook
by Martha Stewart with Sarah Carey
(Clarkson Potter)
The Bon Appétit Fast Easy Fresh Cookbook
by Barbara Fairchild
(John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)

HEALTHY FOCUS
Cooking with the Seasons at Rancho La Puerta: Recipes from the World-Famous Spa
by Deborah Szekely and Deborah M. Schneider, with Jesús González
(Stewart, Tabori & Chang)
EatingWell for a Healthy Heart Cookbook
by Philip A. Ades, M.D. and the Editors of EatingWell
(The Countryman Press)
The Food You Crave: Luscious Recipes for a Healthy Life
by Ellie Krieger
(The Taunton Press, Inc.)

INTERNATIONAL
Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China
by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
(Artisan)
Jewish Holiday Cooking: A Food Lover&rsquos Treasury of Classics and Improvisations
by Jayne Cohen
(John Wiley & Sons, Inc.)
Southeast Asian Flavors: Adventures in Cooking the Foods of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, & Singapore
by Robert Danhi
(Mortar & Press)

PHOTOGRAPHY
The Big Fat Duck Cookbook
Photographer: Dominic Davies
Artist: Dave McKean
(Bloomsbury USA)
Decadent Desserts
Photographer: Thomas Dhellemmes
(Flammarion)
Haute Chinese Cuisine from the Kitchen of Wakiya
Photographer: Masashi Kuma
(Kodansha International)

REFERENCE AND SCHOLARSHIP
Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages
by Anne Mendelson
(Knopf)
The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America&rsquos Most Imaginative Chefs
by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg
(Little, Brown and Company)
The Science of Good Food
by David Joachim and Andrew Schloss, with A. Philip Handel, Ph.D.
(Robert Rose Inc.)

SINGLE SUBJECT
Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes
by Jennifer McLagan
(Ten Speed Press)
Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix-and-Match Dressings
by Joyce Goldstein
(W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.)
The Best Casserole Cookbook Ever
by Beatrice Ojakangas
(Chronicle Books)

WRITING AND LITERATURE
In Defense of Food
by Michael Pollan
(The Penguin Press)
Shark&rsquos Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China
by Fuchsia Dunlop
(W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.)
Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef
by Betty Fussell
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt)

Design and Graphics Awards

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT DESIGN
For the best restaurant design or renovation in North America since January 1, 2006

Design Firm: Design Bureaux, Inc.
Designer: Thomas Schlesser
Project: The Publican, Chicago
Design Firm: Design Bureaux, Inc.
Designer: Thomas Schlesser
Project: Bar Boulud, NYC
Design Firm: Starck Network and SBE Design Team
Designers: Philippe Starck, Bruno Barrione, and Theresa Fatino
Project: The Bazaar by José Andrés at SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, Los Angeles

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT GRAPHICS
For the best restaurant graphics executed in North America since January 1, 2006

Design Firm: The JNL Graphic Design
Designers: Jason Pickleman and Donald Madia
Project: The Publican, Chicago
Design Firm: Korn Design
Designers: Denise Korn, Javier Cortés, and Bryant Ross
Project: The Corner Office, Denver
Designer: Steven Solomon
Project: Terroir, NYC

Restaurant and Chef Awards

OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR AWARD
A working restaurateur who sets high national standards in restaurant operations and entrepreneurship. Candidates must have been in the restaurant business for at least 10 years. Candidates must not have been nominated for a James Beard Foundation chef award in the past 10 years.

Tom Douglas
Tom Douglas Restaurants
Seattle
Keith McNally
Balthazar, Lucky Strike, Morandi, Pastis, Pravda, and Schiller's Liquor Bar
NYC
Richard Melman
Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises
Chicago
Drew Nieporent
Myriad Restaurant Group
NYC
Stephen Starr
Starr Restaurants
Philadelphia

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD
Presented by All-Clad Metalcrafters
A working chef in America whose career has set national industry standards and who has served as an inspiration to other food professionals. Candidates must have been working as chefs for at least the past 5 years.

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT AWARD
A restaurant in the United States that serves as a national standard-bearer for consistent quality and excellence in food, atmosphere, and service. Candidates must have been in operation for at least 10 or more consecutive years.

Babbo
NYC
Chef/Owner: Mario Batali
Owner: Joe Bastianich
Boulevard
San Francisco
Chef/Owner: Nancy Oakes
Owner: Pat Kuleto
Fore Street
Portland, ME
Chef/Owner: Sam Hayward
Owner: Victor Leon and Dana Street
Highlands Bar & Grill
Birmingham, AL
Chef/Owner: Frank Stitt
Jean Georges
NYC
Chef/Owner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Owner: Phil Suarez

RISING STAR CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARD
A chef age 30 or younger who displays an impressive talent and who is likely to have a significant impact on the industry in years to come.

Nate Appleman
A16
San Francisco
Sean Brock
McCrady's
Charleston, SC
Johnny Monis
Komi
Washington, D.C.
Gabriel Rucker
Le Pigeon
Portland, OR
Michael Solomonov
Zahav
Philadelphia
Sue Zemanick
Gautreau's
New Orleans

BEST NEW RESTAURANT
Presented by Lexus
A restaurant opened in 2008 that already displays excellence in food, beverage, and service and is likely to have a significant impact on the industry in years to come.

OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF AWARD
Presented by All-Clad Metalcrafters
A chef or baker who prepares desserts, pastries, or breads and who serves as a national standard-bearer for excellence. Candidates must have been pastry chefs or bakers for at least the past 5 years.

Gina DePalma
Babbo
NYC
Kamel Guechida
Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand Hotel & Casino
Las Vegas
Pichet Ong
P*ong
NYC
Nicole Plue
Redd
Yountville, CA
Mindy Segal
Mindy's HotChocolate
Chicago

OUTSTANDING WINE SERVICE AWARD
A restaurant that displays and encourages excellence in wine service through a well-presented wine list, a knowledgeable staff, and efforts to educate customers about wine. Candidates must have been in operation for at least 5 years.

Bin 36
Chicago
Wine Director: Brian Duncan
Blackberry Farm
Walland, TN
Wine Director: Andy Chabot
Le Bernardin
NYC
Wine Director: Aldo Sohm
Patina
Los Angeles
Wine Director: Eric Espuny
Picasso at Bellagio
Las Vegas
Wine Director: Robert Smith

OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL AWARD
Presented by Southern Wine & Spirits
A winemaker, brewer, or spirits professional who has had a significant impact on the wine and spirits industry nationwide. Candidates must have been in the profession for at least 5 years.

Dale DeGroff
Dale DeGroff Co., Inc.
NYC
Merry Edwards
Merry Edwards Wines
Sebastopol, CA
Garrett Oliver
The Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
John Shafer and Doug Shafer
Shafer Vineyards
Napa, CA
Julian P. Van Winkle, III
Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery
Louisville, KY

OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARD
Presented by Stella Artois
A restaurant that demonstrates high standards of hospitality and service. Candidates must have been in operation for at least the past 5 years.

Daniel
NYC
Owner: Daniel Boulud
Emeril's New Orleans
New Orleans
Owner: Emeril Lagasse
La Grenouille
NYC
Owners: Charles Masson and Giséle Masson
Spiaggia
Chicago
Owner: Levy Restaurants
Vetri
Philadelphia
Owners: Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin

BEST CHEFS IN AMERICA
Presented by American Express®
Chefs who have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions. Candidates must have been working as chefs in any type of dining establishment for at least the past 5 years. The 3 most recent years must have been spent in the region where the chef is presently working.

Best Chef: Pacific (CA, HI)

Jeremy Fox
Ubuntu, Napa, CA
Douglas Keane
Cyrus, Healdsburg, CA
Loretta Keller
Coco500, San Francisco
David Kinch
Manresa, Los Gatos, CA
Daniel Patterson
Coi, San Francisco

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic (D.C., DE, MD, NJ, PA, VA)
Cathal Armstrong
Restaurant Eve, Alexandria, VA
Jose Garces
Amada, Philadelphia
Peter Pastan
Obelisk, Washington, D.C.
Maricel Presilla
Cucharamama, Hoboken, NJ
Vikram Sunderam
Rasika, Washington, D.C.

Best Chef: Midwest (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI)
Isaac Becker
112 Eatery
Minneapolis
Gerard Craft
Niche
St. Louis, MO
Colby Garrelts
Bluestem
Kansas City, MO
Tim McKee
La Belle Vie
Minneapolis
Alexander Roberts
Restaurant Alma
Minneapolis

Best Chef: Great Lakes (IL, IN, MI, OH)
Koren Grieveson
Avec, Chicago
Arun Sampanthavivat
Arun's, Chicago
Bruce Sherman
North Pond, Chicago
Michael Symon
Lola, Cleveland
Alex Young
Zingerman's Roadhouse
Ann Arbor, MI

Best Chef: New York City (Five Boroughs)
Michael Anthony
Gramercy Tavern
Terrance Brennan
Picholine
Wylie Dufresne
WD-50
Gabrielle Hamilton
Prune
Gabriel Kreuther
The Modern

Best Chef: Northeast (CT, MA, ME, NH, NY STATE, RI, VT)
Rob Evans
Hugo's, Portland, ME
Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier
Arrows, Ogunquit, ME
Michael Leviton
Lumiére, West Newton, MA
Tony Maws
Craigie on Main, Cambridge, MA
Marc Orfaly
Pigalle, Boston

Best Chef: Northwest (AK, ID, MT, OR, WA, WY)
Maria Hines
Tilth, Seattle
Joseba Jiménez de Jiménez
The Harvest Vine, Seattle
Ethan Stowell
Union, Seattle
Cathy Whims
Nostrana, Portland, OR
Jason Wilson
Crush, Seattle

Best Chef: Southeast (GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, WV
Hugh Acheson
Five and Ten, Athens, GA
Linton Hopkins
Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta
Mike Lata
Fig, Charleston, SC
Bill Smith
Crook's Corner
Chapel Hill, NC
Bob Waggoner
Charleston Grill
Charleston, SC

Best Chef: Southwest (AZ, CO, NM, NV, OK, TX, UT)
Paul Bartolotta
Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare at Wynn Las Vegas
Sharon Hage
York Street, Dallas
Ryan Hardy
Montagna at the Little Nell, Aspen, CO
Claude Le Tohic
Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand Hotel & Casino, Las Vegas
Andrew Weissman
Le Rêve, San Antonio

Best Chef: South (AL, AR, FL, LA, MS)

Zach Bell
Café Boulud at the Brazilian Court, Palm Beach, FL
John Currence
City Grocery, Oxford, MS
John Harris
Lilette, New Orleans
Douglas Rodriguez
Ola
Miami Beach, FL
Michael Schwartz
Michael&rsquos Genuine Food & Drink, Miami

Humanitarian of the Year
Feeding America
The James Beard Foundation Humanitarian of the Year award is given to an individual working in the realm of food who has given selflessly and worked tirelessly to better the lives of others and society at large.

More than 36 million Americans face issues of hunger and food insecurity each day. For more than 30 years, Feeding America (formerly named America&rsquos Second Harvest) has provided free food and grocery products to those Americans who aren&rsquot sure where their next meal will come from. Feeding America operates through a nationwide network of more than 200 food banks, including City Harvest and the Food Bank for New York City, and more than 63,000 charitable feeding agencies. Each year, they acquire and distribute 2 billion pounds of food to more than 25 million Americans, including 9 million children and 3 million seniors. If you rolled up all of the operating plans from our food banks with the national office, we would be the third largest charity in the United States,&rdquo said Vicki Escarra, the organization&rsquos president and CEO.

The idea of food banking was conceived by John van Hengel, a retired Phoenix businessman, who opened St. Mary&rsquos Food Bank in 1967 after seeing a woman rummaging trough a dumpster to find food for her family. Hengel&rsquos concept spread across the country, and in 1979 a nationwide network of food banks called Second Harvest was created. The organization swiftly moved beyond basic product solicitation and into new areas, such as establishing food safety standards and refining best practices for food banks. By 1984, Second Harvest had moved from Phoenix to Chicago, a more central location for the growing national network.

In 1999, the organization changed its name to America&rsquos Second Harvest and the following year merged with Foodchain, the nation&rsquos largest food-rescue organization. America&rsquos Second Harvest was the most comprehensive and efficient charitable hunger-fighting organization in the country. In 2008, the organization changed its name again to address the public awareness challenge of getting Americans to understand that there were hungry people in their midst. Feeding America secures food for distribution, provides funds for local food banks, standardizes training and care at the local level, and advocates for hunger issues. &ldquoFood is so basic,&rdquo Escarra said, &ldquoSometimes I think we take it for granted, but the reality is when you don' thave it there&rsquos nothing more important than that.&rdquo
Ever growing and evolving, Feeding America plans to expand its reach and impact in the years to come. They intend to fundamentally change the way corporations donate food and grocery products, improve the way food banks across the country help each other succeed, and infuse the lives of millions of struggling Americans with hope and the power to thrive. The economic realities of our time mean that their mission will only become more important and more difficult to fulfill in the years to come. &ldquoOne stunning thing is I&rsquove never yet been involved in asking an individual or a donor to help us and have someone say no.&rdquo Escarra said. &ldquoThe interesting thing about the work we do is the people that we work with so appreciate everything that we provide them that it's really very inspiring to have a chance to do this work.&rdquo We salute Feeding America and the individuals and organizations who support them.

Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America Inductees

David Burke
Chef, Entrepreneur, NYC
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, David Burke is a chef, entrepreneur, and inventor. He worked under Pierre Troisgros, Georges Blanc, and Gaston Lenôtre in France before returning to the U.S. to work at La Cremaillére and River Café. In 1992, Burke opened Park Avenue Café with Smith & Wollensky CEO Alan Stillman and became VP of Culinary Development for the Smith & Wollensky Group four years later. With his creative energies, Burke developed new products, such as GourmetPops and Flavorsprays. He opened davidburke & donatella in 2003 (now known as David Burke Townhouse), followed by David Burke at Bloomingdale&rsquos, David Burke&rsquos Primehouse, David Burke Fromagerie, and David Burke Las Vegas, Fishtail by David Burke. His awards include the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Diplome d'Honneur, Robert Mondavi Award of Excellence, and Nation&rsquos Restaurant News&rsquo 50 Top R&D Culinarians. Burke&rsquos first cookbook, Cooking with David Burke was published in 1995, and his second, David Burke&rsquos New American Classics, in April, 2006.

John T. Edge
Journalist, Director, Southern Foodways Alliance, Oxford, MS
John T. Edge is director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, an institute of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi, where he documents and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the American South. The SFA has completed more than 300 oral histories and 20 films, focusing on the likes of fried chicken cooks, row crop farmers, oystermen, and bartenders. Edge is also a contributing editor at Gourmet. He writes for the New York Times. He is a longtime a columnist for the Oxford American. His work for Saveur and other magazines has been featured in six editions of the Best Food Writing compilation. Edge is the author of six books, including the James Beard Foundation Award&ndashnominated cookbook, A Gracious Plenty: Recipes and Recollections from the American South (2002). He is the editor of seven books, including the foodways volume of the New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture (2007).

Betty Fussell
Author, Culinary Historian, NYC
Betty Fussell is a cookbook writer and food historian, specializing in American food and good home cooking. As a cook, she likes recipes that are simple, improvisatory, and tasty&mdashthings anyone could do with no more than a sharp knife, a skillet, and a few good, fresh ingredients. Her many cookbooks reflect these interests, from her first, Masters of American Cookery (1984), to her most recent, Home Bistro (1997). She is best known for I Hear America Cooking (1986 and 1997), her 2000 memoir My Kitchen Wars, and for the epic history of the New World's native grain, The Story of Corn (1992), for which she won the International Association of Culinary Professional's Jane Grigson Award. Her articles have appeared in publications like the New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, Travel and Leisure, Cosmopolitan, Food Arts, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, Cooking Light, and Vogue.

Dorothy Hamilton
Founder, The French Culinary Institute, NYC
A lifelong Francophile and epicure, Dorothy Hamilton founded the French Culinary Institute in 1984. Her distinguished career in vocational education and outstanding reputation for innovative programs in gastronomy have resulted in numerous accolades and tributes, including the Chevalier dans l'Ordre National du Mérite and Chevalier du Mérite Agricole from the French government. Hamilton has also received the coveted Silver Spoon Award from Food Arts magazine. Elected chairwoman of the American Institute of Wine & Food, Hamilton was soon appointed Chairwoman emerita for life. Most recently, she served as Chairman of the Board of Trustees for the James Beard Foundation. She holds B.A. Honours from the University of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England, and an M.B.A. from New York University.

Clark Wolf
Clark Wolf Company, NYC
Clark Wolf is founder and President of Clark Wolf Company, a New York-based food and restaurant consulting firm established in 1986. He worked as a consultant for more than a decade with Loews Hotels, with whom he worked on 18 properties. In 1994, he opened his own restaurant, the Markham, in New York City. After a successful two-year run, Wolf sold his part of the Markham to refocus on Clark Wolf Company. Wolf has chaired the Advisory Committee to New York University&rsquos Department of Nutrition & Food Studies and now hosts the acclaimed New York University Critical Topics in Food Series at the Fales Library & Special Collections. After founding the New York chapter of the American Institute of Wine & Food, he served on its National Board and mounted six international conferences. Current and recent projects include: Mandalay Resort Group in Las Vegas, Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas, Tabcorp, Australia, Rockefeller University and the Virgin Resort and Spa at Natirar. Wolf is the author of the recently published, American Cheeses.

Lifetime Achievement

Ella Brennan

Partner, Commander's Palace Family of Restaurants
The Lifetime Achievement award is given to an individual whose lifetime body of work has had a positive and long-lasting impact on the way we eat, cook, and/or think about food in America.

America&rsquos Classics Awards
These awards are given to small, regional restaurants, watering holes, shacks, lunch counters, or eateries that have offered good, down-home food and unmatched hospitality for generations.

Breitbach's Country Dining
563 Balltown Rd., Sherrill, IA
Owner: Mike Breitbach
In business since 1852 and touted as Iowa&rsquos oldest bar and restaurant, Breitbach&rsquos Country Dining has been owned and operated by the same family for five generations. Love for Breitbach&rsquos goes well beyond a hankering for the restaurant&rsquos excellent fried chicken, bacon-wrapped pork chops, and mouth-watering pies. This adoration was put to the test on Christmas Eve 2007, when a fire destroyed the eatery&rsquos original building. Faced with the daunting task of starting over, the community rallied around the eatery and a slew of volunteers pitched in to rebuild the restaurant, doing so in a record 69 days. Unbelievably, less than six months later, the restaurant burnt to the ground again. Spirit unbroken, Breitbach&rsquos is once again being rebuilt and will soon be serving its signature dishes to hungry regulars.

Totonno's
1524 Neptune Ave., Brooklyn, NY
Owner: Lawrence Ciminieri
A stone&rsquos throw from the Cyclone, Totonno&rsquos has been serving amazing Neapolitan-style pies for over 80 years. In 1924, one of New York&rsquos first master pizzaiolas, Anthony &ldquoTotonno&rdquo Pero, left his job making pizzas at Lombardi&rsquos to open a Coney Island pizzeria, and Totonno&rsquos has been in his family ever since. Lawrence Ciminieri, the fourth generation now in charge, hasn&rsquot strayed from the original recipe&mdasheach pizza is made with imported Italian San Marzano tomatoes, fresh, locally made mozzarella, yeast, flour, salt, and not much else. The last&mdashand perhaps most important&mdashcomponent is the oven. Totonno&rsquos original coal-fired oven creates a distinct and flavorful char on the crust that cult pizza lovers crave.

Mustache Bill's Diner
8th and Broadway, Barnegat Light, NJ
Owner: Bill Smith
These days, the food at diners is all too often of poor to middling quality. But not at Mustache Bill's. For over 35 years, owner Bill Smith has made everything on the diner&rsquos menu from scratch&mdashrefusing to buy anything premade. It&rsquos the homemade, straight from the heart cooking that makes Mustache Bill&rsquos a must-stop destination on the Jersey Shore for both the fishing community regulars and the summertime beach-goers. From roasted-that-day turkey, ham, and beef to legendary pancakes and hand-cut home fries, it is no surprise that the crowds are huge: Mustache Bill's does 1,000 covers on a typical summer day, and it's only open 6:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. (Photo Credit: Gemini Brittany Pledger).

Yank Sing
101 Spear St, San Francisco
Owner: Vera Chan-Waller
Henry Chan has made it his life&rsquos work to &ldquouplift dim sum.&rdquo At San Francisco&rsquos Yank Sing he has been serving dim sum classics like har gow and Shanghai dumplings alongside newer innovations like phoenix shrimp and cabbage salad with honeyed walnuts to thousands of diners every day for over half a century. His mother opened Yank Sing&rsquos original Chinatown location in 1958. Even as a young man, Henry knew what the restaurant needed to do in order to set itself apart, expand its appeal, and reach a larger audience. By moving to the financial district and creating a more upscale atmosphere, Yank Sing became a favorite among San Francisco&rsquos movers and shakers and a must-visit restaurant for tourists. Now a third generation is at the restaurant&rsquos helm. Henry&rsquos daughter Vera Chan-Waller is in the kitchen every day, ensuring that Yank Sing maintains its high standards and traditions&mdashand keeps growing along with the Bay Area&rsquos vibrant food culture.

Arnold's Country Kitchen
605 8th Ave. S, Nashville
Owners: Jack and Rose Arnold
Meat-and-threes&mdashthat&rsquos what Arnold&rsquos Country Kitchen is all about. Owner Jack Arnold, who favors overalls and bow ties, has been in charge with his wife, Rose, since 1983, and it&rsquos his fried green tomatoes, creamy banana pudding, and made-to-order cornbread that keep Nashville residents coming back for more. Patrons love his succulent roast beef and crisp fried chicken, too, but many are just as likely to forgo the meat and go all sides&mdashthat&rsquos how good Jack&rsquos freshly made dishes are. Frequented by country stars, downtown business-types, and ordinary folks looking for an affordable and delicious meal, Arnold&rsquos is among the best Southern plate lunch spots in the nation.


2. This trendy cookbook for hosting modern dinner parties—when you can

Alison Roman's "Nothing Fancy: Unfussy Food for Having People Over."

If you aren’t already a fan of Alison Roman, you’re about to be—the beloved New York Times columnist has found a massive millennial following for her deceptively simple approach to home cooking. Her latest cookbook, “Nothing Fancy,” is all about “unfussy” food for hosting friends and family, with recipes for smoky dips, fresh salads, and rustic desserts galore. Come out of quarantine ready to impress—or just make the dishes for yourself and share them on Instagram.


3) Be Visible And Accessible

When you go on Instagram these days, you’re bombarded with posts announcing upcoming livestreams by chefs, restaurant owners and cookbook authors.

The smartest places and people got going early in the pandemic. Author David Lebovitz was among the first whose cocktail demonstrations found an audience. It was a logical extension for his book Drinking French. Since he couldn’t do a book tour, he took it online.

The same was true for Joanne Chang, owner of the Flour Cafe and Bakery Group in Boston, and for staff at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. She’s held baking demos on Sunday nights Commander’s has turned Wednesdays into virtual wine and cheese parties.

There are so many now that if you aren’t already doing them, it’s almost too late to elbow your way into the mix. People are getting rectangular eyeballs, as my mother used to joke, from watching so many classes and demos online.

But that visibility has been super important during the pandemic. So is accessibility — responding to viewer questions and reader posts, sending emails, keeping in touch with customers via newsletters, even when you can’t serve them in person.

Of course, that sometimes backfires, as we’ve seen in arguments between chefs and abusive customers.

However, I’d rather see a chef defend their food and staff against the haters, than let nasty comments go unanswered. It humanizes them and reminds them that people are involved, not just brand names and logos.


James Beard's American Cookery

I picked this up to see whether I wanted to cull it from my giant cookbook collection, and it turns out that no, I do not, even though the style is basically the polar opposite of how we eat. It&aposs like a snapshot of ideas about food in 1970, which makes it super interesting as a historical object.

The trend is definitely toward the super-heavy. For instance, the salad section has subsections for various kinds of fish, poultry, and meat many of the salads therein are basically meat napped in hom I picked this up to see whether I wanted to cull it from my giant cookbook collection, and it turns out that no, I do not, even though the style is basically the polar opposite of how we eat. It's like a snapshot of ideas about food in 1970, which makes it super interesting as a historical object.

The trend is definitely toward the super-heavy. For instance, the salad section has subsections for various kinds of fish, poultry, and meat many of the salads therein are basically meat napped in homemade mayonnaise, often with additional mayonnaise for garnish. This sounds more than horrible if the mayonnaise you know is shelf-stable store-bought whipped hydrogenated oil. But then you think about what this salad could have been with a freshly-made emulsion of egg yolk and olive oil, and it's suddenly a believable dish.

I found the section on bacon-wrapped cocktail appetizers especially interesting, considering the recent ZOMG BACON EVERYTHING trends especially since Beard cites the bathtub gin parties of the 1920s as their origin. There are bacon-wrapped water chestnuts, bacon-wrapped jalapeno peppers, etc. But then you realize that the first recipe is for bacon-wrapped crackers. Crackers? Yes. And it really is the 1920s, and bacon and crackers really are a believable dinner, gin optional.

I'm not going to be cooking from it very much, but that's ok. This cookbook is for reading. . more

Great book in paper, not so good in Kindle

Beard&aposs knowledge of and love for American cookery its enormous, and I feel his treatment of the topic here is outstanding. However the publisher&aposs treatment of the book is abysmal. There is no index, no cross referencing, and no way other than paging through each chapter to find the 1500 recipes that are covered if you do not already know the recipe name. This is a very shabby treatment of a classic and almost indispensable cookbook Great book in paper, not so good in Kindle

Beard's knowledge of and love for American cookery its enormous, and I feel his treatment of the topic here is outstanding. However the publisher's treatment of the book is abysmal. There is no index, no cross referencing, and no way other than paging through each chapter to find the 1500 recipes that are covered if you do not already know the recipe name. This is a very shabby treatment of a classic and almost indispensable cookbook . more

This is another amazing historically rich culinary history of American cuisine. Yes, it is a cookbook with a great deal of historical commentary. Gastronomically inspired authors such as James Beard have filled a nitch in the non-fiction market writing about lost culinary techniques inspiring foodies to pick up their wooden spoons with new respect for the American house wife as a substantial force in the molding of American life through the kitchen. I sat up many nights greedily taking in page a This is another amazing historically rich culinary history of American cuisine. Yes, it is a cookbook with a great deal of historical commentary. Gastronomically inspired authors such as James Beard have filled a nitch in the non-fiction market writing about lost culinary techniques inspiring foodies to pick up their wooden spoons with new respect for the American house wife as a substantial force in the molding of American life through the kitchen. I sat up many nights greedily taking in page after page of delicious details of technique and tradition of the blossoming of our diverse nation through a culinary vantage point. Many of these recipes give the reader an idea of the day to day lives of the early American family.

This book included a recipe for Brown Bread, which requires cooking the bread in a coffee tin sitting in a water bath for three hours. James Beard carefully explains the method of the water bath and also how this recipe has evolved over time to using “whole-wheat flour instead of rye flour” (Beard 792). As a hopeful author of non-fiction, I see the importance of giving a clear narrative of the past and its transformation into the present in order to make it relevant to today’s reader depending on the subject. This book is an excellent guide through traditional American gastronomy through its young history.
. more

James Beard&aposs American Cookery is an 800+ page book giving not only the recipes that define "American" cookery (as opposed to French, Irish, Italian etc.) but also the history of American cuisine along with basic cooking tips--like how to cook various vegetables.

Each two-page spread has recipes on the outside of the pages while the inside of the spread is dedicated to giving the instructions for the recipes or telling the reader about the recipe or about the history of that food. The book was o James Beard's American Cookery is an 800+ page book giving not only the recipes that define "American" cookery (as opposed to French, Irish, Italian etc.) but also the history of American cuisine along with basic cooking tips--like how to cook various vegetables.

Each two-page spread has recipes on the outside of the pages while the inside of the spread is dedicated to giving the instructions for the recipes or telling the reader about the recipe or about the history of that food. The book was originally published in 1972 and besides a new preface, no revisions are noted.

Overall the recipes in the book appear to be the type of food real people make using ingredients found in the average grocery store. Most do not appear to be complicated to assemble, but the directions aren't always as clear as they could be. While there are a few line drawings, there are no photographs of the food.

I'd like to thank Anna Balasi at Hachette Books for sending me a complimentary review copy. . more


Black barbecue gets a long-overdue spotlight in two new books

As you page through “Black Smoke,” a trailblazing new volume that catalogues the contributions of Black men and women to American barbecue, you can’t help but notice how author Adrian Miller refrains from calling these historical figures “pitmasters.” More often than not, Miller identifies them as “barbecuers,” avoiding the trendy term first coined in the 20th century, which is often associated with modern cooks, usually White, who created a new class of smoked meats known as craft barbecue.

Miller’s avoidance of the term is a sign of his rigorous scholarship: He doesn’t apply the descriptor retroactively to a group of African Americans who would have never been called pitmasters in their own time. But Miller, a lawyer turned food historian, seems to be making a larger point with his language, as if he were carving out a class exclusively for people whose skills were simultaneously hailed and ignored. It’s as if Miller is creating a lexicon to ensure that these Black contributions to American culture can’t be written out of history.

In recent years, “barbecue has been reinterpreted, so I was trying to figure out what’s the through line to honor African Americans without buying into all of the expansions and reinterpretations,” Miller says in a phone interview. “The current reinterpretations are moving away from the way that Black people cook. Or I should say the traditional ways that Black people have barbecued.”

“I was just trying to honor the ways that these people had done it over time, even in the shifting context of barbecue,” he adds.

“Black Smoke” was released in late April, just weeks after another highly anticipated book on smoked meats, “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ.” Both feature recipes that help tell the history of African American barbecue, whether the whole hog tradition of South Carolina’s Pee Dee region or just “Daddy” Bruce Randolph Sr.'s vinegar-heavy barbecue sauce, which can trace its lineage back to his grandmother, a freed slave.

What’s more, each book can lay claim to a James Beard Award winner. Miller won a medal in 2014 for his history, “Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time,” while Scott won a regional chef award in 2018 for his cooking at Rodney Scott’s BBQ in Charleston, S.C. (Scott’s cookbook, incidentally, is co-written by Lolis Eric Elie, an accomplished writer and filmmaker who had previously published “Smokestack Lightning: Adventures in the Heart of Barbecue Country,” with photographer Frank Stewart.)

Yet both volumes are also reminders of the publishing world’s historic neglect of Black barbecue and the people who produce it. By Miller’s accounting in “Black Smoke,” major publishing houses have released only a handful of barbecue cookbooks by Black authors, and two of those authors (weatherman Al Roker and former Black Panther Bobby Seale) aren’t even professional cooks.

“Chef Bobby Flay has written three barbecue cookbooks, and Steven Raichlen has written 11 barbecue cookbooks in the span of two decades,” Miller writes. “These are fine books, but why aren’t more of these cookbooks, or books about barbecue history, written by African American authors who are barbecue experts?”

“Black Smoke” and “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ” are almost companion titles: The former delves into the history of American barbecue, meticulously explaining (sometimes theorizing when the historical record isn’t clear) the evolution of smoked meats in this country, noting the rise and fall of African Americans as the acknowledged specialists in the field. Scott’s book, part biography and part cookbook, practically serves as a first-person validation of many of Miller’s points.

Based on his research, Miller lays out two arguments that either defy conventional wisdom or push back on other theories on the history of North American barbecue. Miller argues, for instance, that barbecue techniques did not migrate from the Caribbean as European colonists moved north. He suggests that America’s barbecue is more homegrown, borrowed from Native Americans who used rotating spits, raised platforms, shallow pits and vertical holes to cook their wild game. As British colonists in Virginia began relying on enslaved West Africans for labor, those captives would soon become students of Native American barbecue techniques, Miller theorizes.

“Since we lack documentation of this process, we surmise by looking at the end result,” Miller writes. “Did they barbecue side by side? Were there barbecue apprenticeships? No accounts of either exist at this time, but we know that by the late 1700s, African Americans emerged as barbecue’s ‘go-to’ cooks.”

At the same time, Miller finds little evidence to support the theory that American barbecue can trace its roots to West Africa, though he remains open to the idea. Miller suggests that the whole animal cooking found in West Africa may be influenced by techniques introduced by Arab traders who arrived in the region during the Middle Ages. It’s a theory that fellow food writer and historian Michael W. Twitty can’t endorse.

Twitty, who won a Beard award for “The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South,” praises “Black Smoke” for celebrating the “unsung heroes” of African American barbecue. But Twitty’s own research — a combination of what he describes as scholarship, contemporary ethnography and “informed imagination” — has led him to conclude that West Africa’s barbecue techniques long predate the Arabs.

“All these traditions are very old,” Twitty says in an interview. “You have to respect the fact that people have been doing things for quite some time on the continent without outsiders needing to validate it or verify it. … There were customs and there were artifacts and anthropological sites that non-Africans didn’t set eyes on until the 20th century.”

Twitty’s comment underscores one of the problems in chronicling the origins of American barbecue: There’s little documented evidence in cultures that historically relied on oral traditions, and what documentation exists has been largely recorded by White people, who may have had an agenda, or may not have cared enough to observe the details carefully.

Miller invests a fair number of pages in “Black Smoke” explaining the importance of barbecue storytellers. They have the power to focus public attention, generate income for the subjects they write about and generally control the narrative of who is at the forefront of the field. For much of American barbecue’s history, the storytellers, even the White ones, extolled the barbecue expertise of African Americans.

“Before the 1990s,” Miller writes, “food media regularly and overwhelmingly acknowledged Black barbecuers — so much so that, to this day, many people believe that African Americans invented barbecue.”

But that changed in the late 20th century with the rise of craft barbecue (versus the older, folk-art style that Miller attributes to Black barbecue). Food writers, food networks and food bloggers increasingly turned their attention to a group of pitmasters that Miller describes as the White Guys Who Barbecue. These stories had the effect of marginalizing the work of African Americans, Miller notes.

Which is one reason Daniel Vaughn, the barbecue editor at Texas Monthly and the country’s most influential writer on the subject, strives to cover the breadth of the scene, even if his readers tend to focus most of their attention on the magazine’s top 50 barbecue joints in Texas, which publishes every four years. As Texas Monthly gears up for its next list, due out in November, Vaughn has been directing his tasting team to seek a diversity of smokehouses in a state whose population is 13 percent African American.

“You want diversity in geography. We want diversity in the style of barbecue being served, and we want diversity in the ownership and racial diversity. Hispanic, White and Black,” Vaughn says in an interview. “We certainly understand the importance of racial diversity, but we don’t have any hard and fast rules about the percentage on the final list.”

Scott’s career is something of a testament to the power of storytellers. He grew up in rural South Carolina, working at his parents’ business, Scott’s Variety Store and Bar-B-Q in Hemingway, and dreaming of something bigger. “When you grow up in a small town in this country, and you don’t have the best education, and don’t have a lot of money, and you don’t have a lot of exposure, people think you’ve made it if you stay out of trouble and hold down a job,” Scott writes in his book, in which he embraces the term pitmaster and its craft tendencies..


The James Beard Awards Aren’t Coming Back to New York Any Time Soon - Recipes

Monday, May 6, 2002
The Spice Connection
5:30 P.M.
Awards Ceremony
8:30 P.M.
Gala Reception
The New York Marriott Marquis

Chefs of the 2002 James Beard Awards

As we planned our annual gala this past winter, we assigned each chef who will be cooking at the Awards gala a spice (or two or three). You'll see that assignment under their name in these short biographies. As part of our Spice Connection gala theme, the dish that he or she will be serving will spotlight that spice.

1997 James Beard Foundation/American Express Best Chef: Southeast
Norman Van Aken called his first cookbook A Feast of Sunlight, and that’s exactly what he serves up at his eponymous Coral Gables eatery: food that’s as bright and full of happiness as a Florida sunbeam, an irresistible mix of flavors and colors crafted from the region’s south-facing culinary traditions. Van Aken’s plaudits include a James Beard Best New Chef award (1997), a spot in the Nation’s Restaurant News Hall of Fame, a number-one slot in Zagat, and a Robert Mondavi Culinary Award of Excellence. The New York Daily News dubbed Norman’s “the best restaurant south of Paris,” and Mimi Sheraton called his cooking “superb.”


Norman Van Aken
Norman’s
Coral Gables, FL

Robert Cacciola, special events director at M. Young Communications and producer of the Bon Appétit Wine and Spirits Focus, is once again gamely taking on responsibility for the care and coordinating of our merry band of Gala chefs. A former Beard House kitchen volunteer coordinator and co-recipient of the Perry Award for Outstanding Volunteer Contribution to The James Beard Foundation, Cacciola has also served as executive chef at Dean & DeLuca and at Susan Holland & Co. In 1994, he launched the Beard Buffet Luncheons at the Beard House, a celebration of James Beard’s recipes, and since 1991, he’s coordinated every last crumb served up at the Beard Awards.

“To describe Daniel Johnnes as the sommelier of Montrachet,” Frank Prial wrote in The New York Times Magazine, “would be like describing Stephen Sondheim as a piano player. There’s a bit more to it than that.” For example: Johnnes, a partner in Montrachet’s parent company, Myriad Restaurant Group, founder of Jeroboam Wines (importer of rare French labels), and the author of Daniel Johnnes’s Top 200 Wines (Viking), was Santé magazine’s 2000 Wine and Spirits Professional of the Year and our own 1995 Outstanding Wine Service Award Winner. He’s earned Montrachet a Wine Spectator Grand Award every year since 1994 for “the best Burgundy list in America,” and a James Beard Foundation award for Outstanding Wine Service, too. As Robert Parker put it, Johnnes is “our nation’s finest (and nicest) sommelier.”


Daniel Johnnes
Montrachet
NYC

A meal at Kokkari, Caroline Bates wrote in Gourmet, is “a performance that you wish would never end”—and Jean Alberti’s upscale, French-influenced Greek food is the star of the show. The French-born chef has worked in some serious kitchens, including Le Gavroche, London’s Michelin three-star Interlude de Tabaillau, and Le Bistro in Beverly Hills. Before he fired up the stoves at Kokkari, he spent over a year traveling and eating in Greece, soaking up the earthy culinary culture. The result? Three stars from Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle, three more from Stephanie Rosenbaum of San Francisco, and another trio from Patricia Unterman of the San Francisco Examiner. As Rosenbaum wrote, Kokkari is “simple and sophisticated, rustic and chic, with bold, aromatic flavors.

Cumin
Poached Shrimp in Cumin Scented Olive Oil with Chick Pea and Roasted Bell Pepper Salad

Richard Aramino is a veritable Marco Polo: he’s traveled the world in search of culinary treasure and inspiration. Aramino cooked Italian in the Northeast. He studied pastry and baking at the CIA, and he founded a haute pastry biz in Greenville, South Carolina. He was co-owner of a bistro in Greenville, too. He was saucier at The Palms at the Phoenix Inn he owned the Acorn Restaurant, an eclectic upscale eatery in Chatsworth, California he cooked at l’Ermitage in Beverly Hills. But it was his job as executive chef at Sakura Restaurant and Sushi Bar that best prepared him for Temple, where he brings contemporary global techniques to Korean cuisine.


Richard Aramino
Temple
Beverly Hills, CA


Rick Bayless
Frontera Grill, Topolobampo
Chicago

One of America’s premier practitioners of Mexican cuisine, Rick Bayless turns out colorful contemporary regional food at Frontera Grill at upscale Topolobampo, he specializes in celebratory dishes and regional specialties rarely seen in northern climes. He’s a 1988 Food & Wine Best New Chef and the 1991 James Beard Foundation Best American Chef: Midwest in 1995, he was named Outstanding Chef by The James Beard Foundation and Chef of the Year by the IACP. Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen won an IACP Julia Child Cookbook Award. He’s been inducted into Who’s Who of American Food and Drink, and in 1998 he was named James Beard Foundation Humanitarian of the Year. On top of all that, Patricia Wells of the International Herald Tribune named Frontera Grill the third-best casual restaurant in the world!

Ginger
Ginger Pumpkin Burfi: Grated Pumpkin Cooked with Ginger-flavored Sugar Syrup and Topped with Raspberry Sauce


Peter Beck
Tamarind
NYC

Born and raised in Colombia, with family roots in Italy, Britain, and Spain, Arturo Boada brings a wide-ranging culinary sensibility to his work at Houston’s Solero. He studied hotel and restaurant management in both Colombia and Houston before launching a career that included jobs at the Four Seasons in Newport Beach, California, as well as at Houston’s Chez Eddy and Charley’s 517, where he was executive chef. His work at La Mer, also in Houston, won the restaurant a spot on John Mariani’s Esquire list of the country’s best new eateries and a 1992 Best New Chefs nod from Food & Wine in 1997, he earned another spot on Mariani’s roster with the debut of Solero, Houston’s first tapas eatery.

Saffron
Saffron-Marinated Seafood Seviche

Growing up in Azerbaijan in northern Iran, Azita Bina-Seibel was part of an extended family who came together often for huge, extravagant communal meals. It’s an experience she recreates every night at Lala Rokh, the restaurant she opened with her brother, Babak Bina, as an homage to the Persian cooking her mother brought with her when the family came to Boston in 1974. Bina-Seibel began her professional cooking career in 1983 with Ristorante Toscano, a groundbreaking Northern Italian restaurant she opened with an Italian partner. Toscano in Providence, Rhode Island, followed. She teamed up with her brother to open Azita Ristorante. And in 1995, Bina-Seibel finally returned to her roots with Lala Rokh. The spices come direct from the East the recipes are her mother’s. Food & Wine named her one of the city’s top five young chefs endless critical plaudits followed for food The Improper Bostonian called “mysterious and sumptuous.”

Cumin
Baghala Polo: Basmati Rice Flavored with Cumin, Rose Petals Cooked with Fresh Dill and Fava Beans, and Chunks of Lamb in a Light Tomato Sauce with Saffron

Abghust-E Morgh Kubieh: Chicken Cooked with Mixed Vegetables-Okra, String Beans, Potato, Tomato, Eggplant, Peppers-Spiced with Cumin and Saffron


Azita Bina-Seibel
Lala Rokh
Bosto

Born and raised in his family’s ancestral farmhouse in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Antoine Bouterin trained at Beaumanière in Les Baux de Provence and at the legendary Moulin des Mougins. He was chef at au Quai d’Orsay in Paris, then came to America on tour for La Varenne cooking school. By the end of the trip, Bouterin had fallen for the U.S.A. In 1982, he took a job as top toque at Le Périgord, where he earned high praise for his beautiful Provençal food. And in 1995, he opened Bouterin. In his “homey and innocent” restaurant, as Gael Greene described it in New York, he’s attracted a dedicated crowd of well-heeled regulars who love his very French fare. As Tom Steele wrote in Our Town, “in this most romantic setting, you gladly give yourself over to one of New York’s most persistently traditional chefs, now in his glory.”

Tabla, Ruth Reichl wrote in a three-star New York Times review, “was love at first bite.” She fell hard for Indian-born chef Floyd Cardoz’s “American food, viewed through a kaleidoscope of Indian spices. The flavors,” she explained, “are so powerful, original and unexpected that they evoke intense emotions”—like, for instance, undying ardor. And she’s hardly the only gastronome to lose her heart to Cardoz’s cooking: night after night, the restaurant and its downstairs Bread Bar are packed with admirers. Cardoz, who began his career with a cooking-school internship at the Taj Mahal Intercontinental Hotel in Bombay, has been working on his inimitable brand of fusion ever since his days at Les Roches culinary school in Switzerland. He served as executive sous-chef on Gray Kunz’s four-star crew at Lespinasse before signing on as opening chef at Tabla.


Floyd Cardoz
Tabla
NYC

Johnny Earles may be a Louisiana boy, but Floridians have been claiming him as one of their own ever since he opened Paradise Café in 1983. The restaurant won three consecutive mentions on Florida Trend Magazine’s Top 100 list. In 1989, Earles launched Criolla’s, a showcase for his gorgeous cuisine, which brings together the flavors and textures of nations of the equatorial climes. He won a Best Newcomer nod from Florida Trend, and the next year started collecting Golden Spoon Awards from the publication. Earles spent some of his down-season time apprenticing with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Tom Colicchio, Charles Palmer, and Spanish überchef Martin Berasetgui. He’s won a steady stream of DiRoNA awards, three Wine Spectator Award of Excellence nods, and a Best of Award of Excellence plaque every year since 1998.

Yeworkwoha Ephrem hasn’t exactly confined herself to the kitchen. Sure, she opened Sheba, possibly the city’s first Ethiopian restaurant, with her family in 1979, but she also spent 18 years with the United Nations, including three years as a member of the peace-keeping mission on the Israel-Lebanon border. Perhaps it was her time with the U.N. that infused her cookery with a sophisticated, worldly sensibility rarely seen in Ethiopian cuisine—or perhaps it’s just Ephrem’s way with the unique food of her homeland. But ever since she opened Ghenet, her beautiful Soho restaurant, in 1998, she’s won star-studded accolades for food that’s “brighter, livelier, and more immediate than any other Ethiopian food I’ve sampled in New York,” as Gourmet’s reviewer put it.

Chili pepper
Doro Wett: Chicken Sauce Prepared with Berebere and Clarified Butter, Hard-Boiled Egg with a Side of Aieb (Ethiopian) Cheese and Injere

Mesir Wett: Lentil Sauce with Collard Greens and Injere


Yeworkwoha Ephrem
Ghenet Restaurant
NYC

Gale Gand is, as William Rice of the Chicago Tribune put it, a “Dessert Diva.” The Chicago native trained at La Varenne in Paris and worked pastry at Jam’s and Gotham Bar and Grill in Manhattan and at a slew of top Chicago eateries, including Carlos’, the Pump Room, and Bice. With her partner, Rick Tramonto, she earned a Michelin M rating for the five-star Stapleford Park hotel in England she baked for Charlie Trotter, then opened Trio with Tramonto and Henry Adaniya before launching Tru with Tramonto in 1999. She won a James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef, and was nominated three times: for Best Cookbook (for Butter, Sugar, Flour, Eggs (Clarkson Potter, 1999), Best Chefs: Midwest (with Tramonto), and Best New Restaurant (for Tru). Gand and Tramonto earned a Best New Chefs nod from Food & Wine, and Gand won a Robert Mondavi Award for Culinary Excellence. Pat Bruno of the Chicago Sun-Times declared Gand “one of the best pastry chefs in the United States,” and John Mariani called her sweet stuff “poetic.”

Robin Haas got his start in the restaurant business at age 12, working in the kitchen of a small Buffalo hotel. Since then, he’s taken on some bigger challenges. For example, he opened the Four Seasons Ocean Grand in Florida he was chef at Turnberry Isle Resort & Club he earned a spot on Food & Wine’s list of the top ten chefs in America for his New World Cuisine at the Colony Bistro in Miami Beach and he was top toque at Red Square, one of Esquire’s Top New Restaurants in 1998. Haas traveled across Asia for six months before opening the Raku “Asian diners” in Washington, D.C., and Bethesda, Maryland, with Mark Miller. In his current job, as vice president of restaurant concepts for Noble House Hotels and Resorts, he oversees the menus in seven haute restaurants on both coasts.


Robin Haas
Baleen
Coconut Grove, FL

“For those who think Jamaican cooking is all curries and jerks,” Ortanique on the Mile “is a revelation,” Gourmet asserted in its 2000 roundup of the year’s best restaurants. That’s because Cindy Hutson is behind the stoves, doing what she does best: transforming Jamaican food into lighter, brighter, more intensely flavored versions of itself. Hutson developed her signature style—which blends island ingredients, flavors and dishes with more streamlined, less heavy cooking techniques—as an American ex-patriot living in Jamaica. In 1994, Norma’s on the Beach, her first pro cooking gig, garnered widespread acclaim as South Florida’s finest Caribbean restaurant. At her new restaurant, Hutson has earned an “exceptional” rating from the Miami Herald, three and a half stars from the Sun-Sentinel, a four-star award from Mobil, and a Best New Restaurant nod from Bon Appétit.

Thomas John grew up on a farm in Kerala, in southern India, and the aromas of his home region infuse his cookery at Boston’s Mantra. John trained in classic French technique at the Oberoi School of Hotel Management, then took a sous-chef job at the ultra-fine Oberoi hotel in Delhi. His cookery formed the basis of Food of India, a cookbook turned out by the hotel. At Le Meridien in Pune, India, John was executive chef, running four restaurants on the property Spice Island, his own particular project there, was a return to the flavors of his childhood. In his ultra-cool new space at Mantra, he mixes the French technique he was trained in with the Indian spices he was raised with, to widespread acclaim—including a mention on Esquire’s list of the top 20 new restaurants in the country for 2001.


Thomas John
Mantra
Boston

Kálmán Kalla and Maria Lusztigh are making history with every motion of the ladle. Kalla is the chef de cuisine of Gundel, Budapest’s pre-eminent fine-dining restaurant before the coming of Communism. The restaurant was resurrected in 1992 by Budapest-born New York restaurateur George Lang. Kalla trained with master chef Egon Eigen at Budapest’s Duna Hotel and has run the stoves at top restaurants across Europe and Asia. At Gundel, his guest list has included Queen Elizabeth II, Pope John Paul II, and Bill Clinton. Colman Andrews, writing in the Los Angeles Times, praised Kalla’s “elegant, fine cuisine,” a mix of traditional Hungarian dishes and lighter contemporary versions. Since last year, Lusztigh’s gorgeous desserts—which won three gold medals at the National Gastronomic Championship—have helped make Gundel “one of Europe’s pre-eminent gastronomic experiences,” as Fortune put it.

A meal at The Compound, Audrey Van Buskirk wrote in her restaurant-of-the-year review in the Santa Fe Reporter Restaurant Guide, “is like living in a Merchant Ivory fantasy.” Van Buskirk praised the look, the service, the drinks—and “then,” she wrote, “there’s the food.” Chef/co-owner Mark Kiffin’s “flawless” contemporary American cuisine, combining Mediterranean cookery with New World influences, reflects a serious New American regional pedigree. A CIA grad, Kiffin worked with Mark Miller at the original Coyote Café in Santa Fe, served as corporate executive chef at the Coyote Café MGM Grand, was consulting chef for the opening of Red Sage in Washington, D.C., and was corporate executive chef for Stephan Pyles’s restaurant company, Star Concepts. He was top toque at the Highlands Inn in Carmel, California, before coming to The Compound.


Mark Kiffin
The Compound
Santa Fe, NM

François Kwaku-Dongo came to New York from the Ivory Coast to study literature, not cooking. But he took a part-time job as a prep cook at Alo Alo to pay the bills, and pretty soon cookbooks were replacing the novels on his shelves. Kwaku-Dongo worked his way up to the hot line under the guidance of Francesco Antonucci. When Antonucci opened Remi, he made Kwaku-Dongo his sous-chef. In 1989, Kwaku-Dongo joined the crew at Spago in Los Angeles. Five months later, he was sous-chef, and in 1991 he took over the stoves. In 1996, Kwaku-Dongo opened Spago Chicago. These days, as Pat Bruno wrote in a three-star Chicago Sun-Times review, his food “is better than ever. It sizzles. I am almost at the point where I would say that the Spago menus…are a model of what contemporary American food is all about.”

Ilo, John Mariani wrote in Esquire, is “the city’s single best new eatery.” New York Times critic William Grimes gave Rick Laakkonen’s new eatery three stars, and called the chef “endlessly inventive but solidly grounded in the fundamentals of flavor, texture and harmony.” Laakkonen, a CIA grad, worked his way up to sous-chef in David Burke’s kitchens at the River Café, trained at l’Ecole Le Nôtre in France, and put in time at the Michelin three-star les Près d’Eugénie and at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monte Carlo. Back in New York, he was chef at Petrossian and at Luxe, where he earned his first three-star Times review. He went back to the River Café as executive chef before opening the modern American Ilo last year. In another three-star review, Hal Rubenstein of New York celebrated the “buoyancy and breadth” of Laakkonen’s cooking. “Ilo,” he declared, “is something special.”

Mustard seed
Stuffed Duck Neck with a Smoked Beet, Mustard Seed, and Vidalia Onion Soubise, Upland Watercress, and Corona Beans


Rick Laakkonen
Ilo
NYC

Trained as a visual artist, Michael Laiskonis works the sweet stoves at the inimitable Tribute in Farmington Hills, Michigan. He joined the Tribute team as a line cook in 1997, and his hybrid background shows through in his work to excellent effect: Laiskonis’s pastries have striking depth and savory character, and his use of herbs and surprising combinations (apple-fennel sorbet chocolate and raspberry with thyme) makes his desserts as beautiful to eat at as they are to look at.

At Shamiana, Eric Larson is putting a Foreign Service childhood to excellent use—in the service, one might say, of gastronomic diplomacy. Raised largely in the Indian sub-continent and in East Africa, Larson graduated from the Horst Mager Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon, and he worked his way through a fistful of Seattle-area restaurants. Then he teamed up with his sister, Tracy Larson, and returned to Southeast Asia. The pair spent months traveling through India and Pakistan, trolling the markets and haunting the restaurants in search of authentic local cuisine. Back in Seattle, they opened Shamiana in 1991, highlighting cuisine from India as well as from Burma and Pakistan. They hit the top ten list both at the Seattle Times and at the Seattle Post-Intelligencer Zagat called Shamiana the best Indian restaurant in the Northwest and last year, they found themselves featured in Bon Appétit.


Eric Larson
Shamiana
Kirkland, WA

Annisa, notes New York Times reviewer William Grimes, is a small place, “but with disarming ease, it manages to make a big impression.” Take, for instance, chef/co-owner Anita Lo’s menu. As Grimes says, it’s “quietly persuasive…filled with arresting ingredient and flavor combinations.” The Michigan-born chef started her pro career at Bouley, then trained at Ritz-Escoffier in Paris, graduating first in her class. She apprenticed with Michel Rostang and Guy Savoy, then came back to New York to work her way up the line at Chanterelle. She was chef at the French-Vietnamese Can, at Maxim’s, and at Mirezi, where she earned serious kudos for her pan-Asian fare. With her partner, Jennifer Scism, she traveled across Southeast Asia and Europe while they plotted out Annisa. Seems they did a good job. The Village Voice named Lo its Best New Restaurant Chef for 2000 Food & Wine put her on its 2001 Best New Chefs roster and Moira Hodgson of the New York Observer called her food “startlingly original and focused, artful yet unpretentious.”

Dominique Macquet brings a lot of traveling to his award-winning cookery at Dominique’s in New Orleans—including the sophisticated spices of his home country, Mauritius. Trained at the Elangeni Hotel in Durban, South Africa, Macquet cooked on the Queen Elizabeth II, spent two years in London, and worked his way through Asia before arriving at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills. In 1995, he came to New Orleans to take over the stoves at the Bistro at Maison de Ville on his watch, the restaurant won a four-bean rating from the Times-Picayune. In 1997, he opened his eponymous eatery in the Maison Dupuy Hotel. Another four-bean review followed Wine Spectator gave Dominique’s an Award of Excellence New Orleans magazine named Macquet Chef of the Year. In October 2000, he published his first cookbook, a distillation of his globe-trotting, classically based style titled Dominique’s Fresh Flavors (Ten Speed).

Garam masala
Garam Masala-Coconut Seviche of Baby Conch and Geoduck with Oven-Dried Pineapple "Mille Feuille" and Roasted Peanut Oil


Dominique Macquet
Dominique’s
New Orleans

In the middle of John Manion’s baseball-playing, all-American childhood, his parents carried him off to São Paolo for a five-year stint—and acquired a Brazilian cook. Manion spent long hours in the kitchen, watching her work, and the flavors seem to have worked their way into his blood. After a number of vocational twists and turns (including a degree in English literature and Chinese politics) he gave into his cooking jones and earned a culinary degree in Chicago. He apprenticed with Dean Zanella at Grappa, then got a job as opening chef at the Low Country–flavored Savannah’s right after graduation. Chicago promptly put the restaurant on its Best Newcomers list. Manion cooked with Michael Cordua at Churrascos, immersing himself in Nuevo Latino cuisine, before opening Mas, where, as Phil Vettel of the Chicago Tribune wrote, his Brazilian childhood is electrically present: he “capture[s] those flavors and more” at this red-hot Chicago eatery.

Guajillo
Braised Ropa Vieja Tostaditas with Smoked Poblano Cream and
Spanish Caperberries

Hapa is a Hawaiian slang for “half,” but while there are at least two sides to everything at this Phoenix restaurant, chef James McDevitt certainly doesn’t do anything by halves. Son of a Japanese mother and an American father, McDevitt has traveled across Asia. He began working in California restaurants as a teenager graduated from the Scottsdale Culinary Institute and got a job at TriBeCa Grill under Don Pintabona. He was executive sous-chef at RoxSand in Phoenix before opening Restaurant Hapa with his wife, pastry chef Stacey McDevitt. The restaurant—literally divided in half, with McDevitt’s Asian fusion on one side and serious sushi on the other—won a spot on Gourmet’s Best Restaurants list Alison Cook called it “the most compelling place in town.” McDevitt made the 1999 Food & Wine Best New Chef roster. The New York Times called his food “inventive and exhilarating.” And last year, McDevitt snagged a James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef nomination.


James McDevitt
Restaurant Hapa
Scottsdale, AZ

David Myers didn’t mean to be a cook. He meant, in fact, to study international business. But somewhere along the way he got sidetracked—he fell in love with food. Abandoning school, he worked his way through a series of restaurants, eventually landing at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. Impressed with his talent, Trotter sent Myers to France to work with Gérard Boyer at the Michelin three-star Les Crayères. Stateside, Myers worked the line for Daniel Boulud at Restaurant Daniel in New York, then served as Joachim Splichal’s executive sous-chef for the re-opening of Patina in Los Angeles. At the yearling JAAN at the ultra-luxe Raffles L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, Myers turns out Modern French fare touched with the tastes of Indochine and the earthy flavors of California.

Licorice
Licorice Root-Braised Pork Belly with Fennel Purée and Lovage

In 1979, Michel Ohayon left the Jewish quarter of Casablanca with a single suitcase, bent on opening his own restaurant. He made his way to California, found a job as a busboy at Ma Maison, and learned English by watching TV while he immersed himself in the business of restaurants in America. Ohayon next got a cooking job at a Moroccan restaurant managed another then scored a gig in the front of the house in a French restaurant near the Hollywood studios. By 1979—five years after he arrived in America—he had saved up enough to open Koutabia. His food, rich in authentic detail and infused with the deep love of cooking he inherited from his Moroccan grandmother, has won accolades from Zagat, the Los Angeles Times, Gourmet, and a slew of other publications. The Los Angeles Writers’ Association gave Koutabia three stars, and Metropolitan Home called this L.A. institution a chefs’-night-out favorite.

Shrimp with Olives, Tomatoes, Capers, and Saffron


Michel Ohayon
Koutabia Restaurant
Los Angeles

Poppy seed
Poppy Seed Macadamia Nut Dacquoise Roulade with Passion-Fruit Sorbet

Tangerine is hip and happening, crowded with Philadelphia style-makers—and no wonder. Never mind the fab look: it’s all about the food. As the Philadelphia Inquirer put it in an “excellent” review, “with talented newcomer Chris Painter in the kitchen, who wouldn’t be having a good time?” Painter, classically trained and a veteran of some serious kitchens, spent time behind the stoves at Lespinasse in New York before launching Tangerine. There he brings together tastes and textures from southern France, Spain, Italy, and Morocco (think harissa gnocchi with dates and creamy celery root, or seared scallops and foie gras with rosemary tagliatelle, black-pepper sauce, and orange-cumin vinaigrette). Critics are taking notice: the Philadelphia Inquirer, for one, named Painter Best New Chef of 2000.

Caraway
Eastern Mediterranean-Spiced Baby Vegetables


Chris Painter
Tangerine
Philadelphia

Cinnamon, Ginger, and saffron
Tuna Ravioli with Ginger Marco Polo

In 1996, Guillermo Pernot opened Vega Grill in Philadelphia’s hip Manayunk section, launching that city’s Nuevo Latino movement. A self-taught veteran of the Philly scene, Pernot opened Gloria and Emilio Estefan’s Allioli in South Beach, Florida, then came back to Philadelphia to serve as chef de cuisine at Treetops at the Rittenhouse Hotel before opening Vega Grill. Two years later, he opened ¡Pasión! Philadelphia Magazine named it Best New Restaurant Food & Wine named him to the Best New Chefs list John Mariani declared Pernot Chef of the Year and called the restaurant “perhaps the best exemplar of Nuevo Latino food in America” and Pernot garnered two consecutive James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic nominations. Last year, Gourmet put ¡Pasión! on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

Vanilla
Roasted Rabbit Loin with Vanilla Mojo and Yuca Purée


Guillermo Pernot
¡Pasión!
Philadelphia

“It was a lucky day for [chef Daniel] Patterson when [Jackie] Riley…looked in the kitchen windows and decided she wanted to work there,” Caroline Bates wrote in a glowing Gourmet review of Elisabeth Daniel. One look at her résumé removes any doubt on that score. Riley graduated from the CIA in pastry arts, then served as assistant pastry chef at Chicago’s Drake Hotel. She was pastry chef at La Tour in the Park Hyatt Chicago, headed the sweet kitchens at Kinkead’s in Washington, D.C., and at Charlie Trotter’s, served as corporate pastry chef for the Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group in Chicago, then won widespread acclaim as opening pastry chef at New York’s Indian-flavored Tabla. At Elisabeth Daniel, “she has transformed the sweet course with her exotic tropical fruit soups and sorbets and rosewater-scented blancmanges,” Bates declared.

Cardamom
Coffee Cardamom Kulfi with Chocolate Kokum Sauce

“At Blue Ginger,” John Mariani wrote in Esquire, “I enjoyed one of those meals that reminded me how great chefs can refine ideas the way great musicians refine a riff or interpret a sonata.” Tsai learned to cook from his mother, who owned a Chinese restaurant in Dayton, Ohio. He spent the summer after his sophomore year at Yale cooking at Le Cordon Bleu. After graduation, he headed back to Paris to apprentice at Fauchon and Natacha. He studied sushi in Osaka, Japan signed on for a master’s degree at Cornell’s Hotel School cooked at Silks in San Francisco, and ran the stoves to widespread acclaim at Santacafe in Santa Fe. In 1998, he launched his TV show, East Meets West. The following year, he published his first cookbook. And in 2000, People named him to its list of the 50 Most Beautiful People in the World, noting Tsai “can deliver both the sizzle and the steak.”

Star Anise
Foie Gras Chawan Mushi with Yukiguni Maitakes


Ming Tsai
Blue Ginger
Wellesley, MA

While waiting to take doctoral courses in biochemistry at Princeton, Patricia Yeo decided to fill her time with a course at the New York Restaurant School. She never made it to Princeton. Fascinated by the science of the kitchen, Yeo started her career with a spot in Bobby Flay’s kitchen at Miracle Grill. When he left to open Mesa Grill, he made her his sous-chef. Yeo opened Brasserie Savoy in San Francisco, then cooked at China Moon for Barbara Tropp. Back in New York, she was opening sous-chef for Flay at Bolo. Anne Gingrass lured her back to San Francisco to open Hawthorne Lane, where her fusion cooking earned her three stars from the San Francisco Chronicle. Two years ago, she opened AZ in New York. William Grimes gave the place three stars in The New York Times, lauding her “highly inventive, extroverted and wildly successful brand of fusion cooking.”

Ginger
Ginger Lacquered Quail with Vanilla Roasted Pineapple


A Juneteenth of Joy and Resistance

With the dual pressures of unrest and the pandemic, black chefs are contemplating the ways this holiday can help Americans cope.

Summers are special for African-Americans, a time to reunite with friends, dine alfresco and celebrate Juneteenth, the holiday that remembers the day — June 19, 1865 — when enslaved Africans in Galveston, Texas, learned from Union soldiers that they were free, two years after Abraham Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation.

Widely considered to be African-Americans’ independence day, Juneteenth is a time to share verdant family memories and indulge in the season’s bounty. Over patio tables dotted with half-full cans of strawberry sodas — red drinks are nods to hibiscus and kola nuts, which made their way to the Americas as part of the trans-Atlantic slave trade — revelers share the ruby-hued foods of the holiday: fiery sausages, watermelon-scented shaved ice, juicy stone fruit cobblers and barbecue.

But this year, the fanfare has been underscored by uncertainty as the killings of unarmed black men and women, the subsequent uprisings and the coronavirus pandemic have made the holiday a symbol of unfulfilled promises. Still, many black Americans will lean into joy as a form of resistance rather than choke on the smoke of inequality.

For black chefs, like Greg Collier in Charlotte, N.C., the unrest isn’t just a hashtag it’s lived experience. “I can’t bring myself to watch those videos because I don’t want to be in the position that I’m mad at the system of white supremacy and putting that on everybody,” said Mr. Collier, referring to the filmed deaths of George Floyd and Ahmaud Arbery. “As a business owner, I have to try to figure out how to handle my anger, pain and frustration, so it doesn’t affect my source of income.”

Structural racism stands in the way of black chefs reaching their highest potential. In recent years, the dialogue about their lack of access to investors and loans to help them grow their culinary empires has started to swell, and the pandemic and protests add yet another hurdle. Juneteenth is a continuation of the legacy of resilience, and a reminder of a people’s ongoing anguish.

“All of this is heavy,” said Edouardo Jordan, the James Beard award-winning chef and an owner of JuneBaby, Lucinda and Salare, in Seattle. The recent protests there have reminded him of the two riots he lived through in his hometown, St. Petersburg, Fla., in 1996, after Tyron Lewis, an unarmed teenager, was killed by the police.

“I’ve never been a political or social activist. It’s not my career,” Mr. Jordan said. “But I have a platform. I have to use my platform to stay alive and to survive.”

At JuneBaby, the mission has always been to teach diners, many of them white, about the food of the African diaspora. Since the pandemic began, Mr. Jordan has been feeding essential workers and sharpening the restaurant’s takeout and batch cocktail offerings.

Juneteenth offers an opportunity for black Americans to take a pause under banners of red, green and black, and claim some happiness, which can be itself a form of protest, as pleasure is living.

“It’s different from any other cookout,” said Jonathan (Jonny) Rhodes, the owner of Indigo, a restaurant in Trinity Gardens, a mostly black and Latino neighborhood in Houston. “It’s a time of collective freedom.”

African-Americans define and celebrate liberation in a number of ways, and peace and a glorious feast are just two. But the holiday is also a reminder of “complacency in the system,” Mr. Rhodes said. “Democracy is slow, and we have to continue the fight for equality.”

Before the pandemic, reservations were hard to get for Mr. Rhodes’s “neo-soul” tasting menu at Indigo. Now, the restaurant operates as Broham Fine Soul Food and Groceries, selling sandwich components like whole wheat loaves, pickled vegetables, smoked chicken salad and vegetable “ham” (a cured, smoked and pickled rutabaga).

While his fine-dining establishment has morphed into a general store, Mr. Rhodes has been able to stay hopeful as he aims for one of the most valuable assets in a restaurant’s success: ownership of the approximately 800-square-foot building that houses his business, and six acres outside the city.

“It’s the final chain in the supply chain for us to become 100-percent self-sustaining for our community,” he said.

Figuratively, Mr. Rhodes will then have his “40 acres and a mule,” the property to be given to freed black people under a Civil War-era order by the Union general William T. Sherman that was later reversed.

Danielle Bell, an operator of de Porres, a dinner series and catering company in Los Angeles, has been scrolling through her old Juneteenth Instagram posts, zeroing in on photos of her anticuchos, or Afro-Peruvian grilled cow heart, and pig feet terrine, in anticipation of the holiday. She checks in on her mother, Grace Bell, who lives 15 minutes away from the spot in Louisville, Ky., where David McAtee, a barbecue man her mother knew, was fatally shot by law enforcement officers.

Before the pandemic, Ms. Bell and her business (and life) partner, Pablo Osorio, were slinging Southern-style biscuits and gravy, savory greens pie, caramel poundcake, ají de gallina and causa at the Hollywood and Altadena Farmers’ Markets. They also hosted candlelit farm dinners, which is how they marked Juneteenth in the past. The pandemic has made all of that impossible, and so Ms. Bell and Mr. Osorio pivoted to delivery.

Inspired by the continuing public conversation around black foodways, Ms. Bell decided her annual Juneteenth celebration will take a new form she’ll send out a newsletter menu, which customers can use to place orders. “The holiday is a starting point for embracing the best parts of the past,” she said.

She ventured out last week to decompress — the death of Breonna Taylor weighed heavily on her mind — and plan for the holiday, as protests took place in Los Angeles and a curfew, which has since been lifted, was imposed.

“I visited Moonwater Farm in Compton — their neighborhood didn’t have helicopters or a police state,” she said. “I picked some mulberries and pet baby goats. My visit was cut short by the curfew, but I went home with eggs and clary sage.”

For observers and participants alike, Juneteenth is nourishment for the community it’s fried green tomatoes, okra rice, peach pies, hot peppers and a moment to exhale. It’s an occasion to tease cousins about who makes the best potato salad, and for an unbroken circle of belly laughs, which are a balm while the storm clouds loom over every aspect of black Americans’ lives.

“For black folks, we don’t have a choice: We have to make it through,” said Mr. Collier, the chef in Charlotte. “How we get through this is the question.”

Mr. Collier, a native of Memphis, Tenn., runs two restaurants with his wife, Subrina Collier. To ring in the Juneteenth festivities, they’ll hold a grand reopening for Leah & Louise, their “modern juke joint” in a repurposed Ford Model T factory in Charlotte. (The space can seat 42 people, but to adhere to social distancing guidelines, they’ll serve only 20, six feet apart.)

The couple had planned to open the space in late March, but the pandemic forced them to do curbside orders instead. “It’s less about our opening, but about celebrating the freedom to feed people and make them happy,” Mr. Collier said.

With dishes like smoked lamb ribs topped with peanuts and sweet potato pikliz, Mr. Collier’s food storytelling salutes African-Americans’ leisure, and a whirling and enduring food entrepreneurship tradition.

Mr. Jordan, in Seattle, has avoided making holiday plans. Instead he is taking each day as it comes and brainstorming entrees for his menus to coincide with the summer harvest in the Pacific Northwest. Carving out time for jubilant deep breaths is medicine.

“I’m working harder than ever,” he said. “It’s a different type of work, we aren’t on the line for 12 hours. It’s a mental challenge to navigate all this.”

His voice brightened while drifting back to young adulthood, when he was the official party-time punch maker.

“We used anything from Kool-Aid packets to Hawaiian Punch to make red drink,” he said, painting an image of a dapper uncle gliding across the freshly cut lawn and waving to the neighbors before reaching the drum barrel grill sitting on the edge of a rectangular concrete slab.

Heads tilt toward the sky, as the rain starts to pours down — an imperfect Juneteenth, just like our nation.


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But Tipton-Martin remains optimistic that Baltimore is the right place for her.

She and her husband enjoy walking the Inner Harbor extending into Fells Point, which intrigues them because of its connection to Frederick Douglas.

The city’s historic architecture — particularly in Guilford and Roland Park — reminds them of the Shaker Heights home they lived in when they were first married while she worked as the food editor at The Cleveland Plain Dealer. Before that, she was a staff writer at the L.A. Times for eight years.

“What I love about Charles Village, besides the house stock, is the mix of people associated with University living,” she said. “They are artists, they are engaged, they are tolerant, they are thinkers. That makes up for the parts that I don’t like so much,” she said. “I’m determined to find a way to bring the optimism from the new life that comes from an education of young people.”

Tipton-Martin plans to do just that when she eventually opens a cooking school or streaming cooking show from a studio kitchen in her beloved home’s basement, which has its own entrance.


Watch the video: James Beard Award Featured Chefs (November 2021).