Traditional recipes

Egg Korma With Frizzled Onions

Egg Korma With Frizzled Onions

Whole jammy eggs are seared in ghee until blistered and crispy, then smothered in a gently spiced coconut sauce. Just as you would when searing meat, pat the eggs dry for better browning and to prevent spattering. Don’t rush cooking down the yogurt base for the sauce, which will ensure the spices toast and aromatics caramelize, flavoring the entire dish.

Ingredients

  • 1 4" piece ginger, scrubbed, unpeeled, thinly sliced
  • 2 garlic cloves, smashed, peeled
  • ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced, divided
  • ¼ cup ghee or neutral oil
  • ⅓ cup dried apricots, quartered
  • 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk
  • 1 bunch of red radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup mint leaves, torn if large

Recipe Preparation

  • Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lower eggs into water one at a time. Immediately set a timer for 7 minutes and cook eggs, maintaining a low boil. Carefully transfer eggs to a large bowl of ice water and let cool until just slightly warm, about 2 minutes. Gently crack eggs all over and peel, starting from the fat end containing the air pocket. Gently dry eggs with a clean dish towel.

  • While eggs cook, purée ginger, garlic, yogurt, cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, and half of onion in a blender until smooth; set aside.

  • Heat ghee in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until it sizzles as soon as an egg hits the skillet, about 1 minute. Fry whole eggs, rotating twice to get golden brown and crispy on 3 sides, about 5 minutes total. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to a plate, leaving ghee behind; generously season eggs with salt.

  • Add remaining onion to skillet and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon and leaving as much fat in skillet as possible, transfer half of fried onions to plate with eggs (but keep them separate); season with salt.

  • Add apricots to skillet with remaining fried onions and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until just starting to blister, about 1 minute.

  • Add reserved yogurt purée and cook, stirring frequently and smashing against sides and bottom of pan (the yogurt paste will begin to stick to pan and darken—this is what you want; just keep stirring and smashing until you get there), until yogurt cooks down and purée is the color of gravy, 5–7 minutes. Add bay leaf and ½ cup water to pan and scrape up any browned bits. Reduce heat to medium, add coconut milk, and season with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors have melded and sauce is the consistency of gravy, about 1 minute. Squeeze in juice from one-quarter of lemon; pluck out bay leaf. Return eggs (but not the frizzled onion) to sauce and cook until heated through, about 1 minute.

  • Meanwhile, toss radishes and mint in a medium bowl. Squeeze in juice from remaining lemon quarters; season with salt and toss again to combine.

  • Serve egg korma with warm rice and radish salad alongside. Top with reserved fried onions.

Recipe by Sohla El-WayllyReviews SectionThis dish was eggcellent! I didn't change any ingredients, and loved the amount and size of the apricots, which gave some toothsome texture to the dish. I did cook the yogurt purée a lot longer than suggested, maybe 15 minutes, so it would get the same caramelization color as in the photo, which I think did a lot to meld the flavors and soften the apricots, releasing their sweetness to the dish. Once I added the coconut milk/bay leaf/water, I cooked that for quite a bit longer than directed as well, maybe 5-10 minutes! One minute didn't seem like enough time for the bay to give off its flavor. Next time as some comments suggested, I will add chili to the dish, I felt it could use a little more heat than black pepper provides.This is a lovely dish. Definitely flavorful, although it seems like the flavors are a bit distinct instead of harmonious: that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Frying the eggs was an absolute nightmare. I swear they were as dry as they were going to get and still left a monstrous splatter. The only other complaint is that most of the flavor is apricot and yogurt and egg. The sauce feels like it fades in the background with everything else in the bowl. Which is a shame, because by itself the sauce is amazing.cbruettSalt Lake City, Utah06/23/20This was such a great recipe! The korma is so tasty and flavorful, though I did make a few changes/additions.- Use half the suggested amount of apricots. Apricots are def the star of this dish and you shouldn't omit them, but 1/3 cup made the dish a bit too sweet, in my opinion! Half that amount still left a great flavor and cut the sweetness a bit. I also diced them into small pieces so it dispersed easier in the sauce, like a previous commenter suggested.- For a subtle bit of heat, add 1/2 tsp kashmiri red chili powder and/or a chopped green chili to the yogurt before pureeing.- After taking out half the frizzled onions for garnish, add a tablespoon of tomato paste and fry it off for a bit before adding in the apricots. Introduces an extra tangy element to the korma that I enjoyed.k_meenaNew York City, NY06/07/20Sohla is such a great recipe developer, the apricots really make it!To keep it short: I made this recipe for my girlfriend and she thought it was the best I ever cooked for her. Don't be put off by the apricots - they kind of melt into the sauce and are crucial for the sweet dimension in this dish in my opinion. Highly recommended!Short review: this was exceptional and tasted complex but was super easy to execute. 10/10.For your consideration: if you are in a household of radish-lovers, you may want to double or more the salad recipe. Raisins/currants sub in nicely for apricots if you, like me, are averse to them. If your sauce seems relatively runny, just scoop the firm coconut cream from the top of the can, and stir it in.amy engelSaskatoon, SK04/25/20The apricots are... off putting.AnonymousDetroit 01/19/20Made this for late breakfast... it was so delicious! All of the flavors melded together perfectly, and we enjoyed the freshness of the radish and mint. Would eat this again and again!AnonymousLos Angeles, CA01/04/20This was so delicious! I substituted unsweetened coconut yogurt for the whole milk yogurt to make the recipe dairy free, and it was incredible. My only qualm was that I found the apricot pieces to be a bit unwieldy in the final product, so next time I would chop them more finely and smash them a bit more during cooking.SUCH a great recipe; I highly recommend it!AnonymousMontreal, QC01/03/20So good! Made with local duck eggs and watermelon radish (because that’s what was available). Easier to cook than I expected it to be.emmaroseAnn Arbor, MI12/17/19AnonymousTennessee12/12/19

The 7 Best Vegetarian Cookbooks of All Time, According to Me

Being a vegetarian doesn't mean subsisting on steamed broccoli and bowls of pasta. In her monthly column, nearly lifelong vegetarian Sarah Jampel will tackle cooking, eating, and navigating the world meat-free—even when her grandma still doesn't know what she makes for dinner.

I like to think of myself as a quasi-minimalist. I limit myself to ten tote bags, I get rid of lone socks, I own four pairs of shoes total—but there’s a limit to how far I’ll winnow down my cookbook collection. They feel less like possessions and more like friends. I feel better just knowing that they’re there, full of recipes, wisdom, and seemingly endless information. They’re my reference library when I’m looking for an interesting way to cook a rutabaga, or a make-ahead dinner party dish to feed ten, or different names and variations of congee. And while I own plenty of cookbooks that include recipes for meat and fish, I get more excited about vegetarian-only book because I’m getting more bang-for-my-buck. Here are my seven most-loved, from the one I turn to when I need a project to the one I open when my mind is fried and I need a jolt of inspiration:

World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking by Madhur Jaffrey

When I was just a young tween, I went through a samosa phase spurred by my Indian food fixation and the illustrated step-by-step guides in this 1981 book. The brilliant Madhur Jaffrey has authored 30 cookbooks (and some children’s books too—what can’t this woman do?), but somehow the one I own that’s cracked at the binding is her second, World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking. It covers an almost-comically large swath of the planet, from Bali to Japan to India to Iran, making the meticulously researched headnotes and recipes all the more amazing. Once I grew out of my samosa stage, I explored the rest of the table of contents—shredded cabbage with mustard seeds and fresh coconut, hijiki with sweet potatoes, and black-eyed pea pancakes. There are enough recipes in here to last me at least another forty years.

Buy it: World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking, $20

Fresh India by Meera Sodha

Last year on my birthday, friends from many parts of my life came together to throw me a surprise party. Who, me?! I was shocked, thrilled, and grateful—even more so when I realized that everyone had cooked a dish from Fresh India, a book I’ve been obsessed with since it was published in 2016. It’s like the vegetarian sequel to U.K.-based Meera Soha’s first book, Made in India: a personal account of the fresh, fast food Meera cooks at home. The goan butternut squash cafreal (which inspired this recipe for Squash With Yogurt Sauce and Frizzled Onions), paneer butter masala, cauliflower korma with blackened raisins, and spinach, tomato, and chickpea curry are holding me over until her newest book, East, is available for purchase in the U.S.

Buy it: Fresh India, $25

Afro Vegan by Bryant Terry

Bryant Terry’s mission—not just in this book but in his career as a whole—is to honor and shine light on the culinary history of the African diaspora, and to show that African and Afro-diasporic ingredients and techniques are inherently healthy—no adaptation necessary. The recipes in this book brilliantly fuse flavors and ingredients from Africa, the Caribbean, and the American South: Think tofu curry with mustard greens, muscovado-roasted plantains, chermoula tempeh bites, and curried scalloped potatoes with coconut milk. And since each recipe comes with a song, you don’t even have to think about your cooking playlist.

Buy it: Afro Vegan, $20

Lucky Peach Presents Power Vegetables by Peter Meehan and the Editors of Lucky Peach

R.I.P. Lucky Peach, and thank you so much for leaving us with this wacky, weird, and wonderful cookbook proving that, yes, vegetarian food can be fun, too. The LP team set some smart constraints—like pastas and egg-on-it grain bowls are not permissible (I can figure those out myself), but fish (in the form of anchovies and fish sauce) and dairy are fair game—that pushed them (and, me) to be more creative. Now, I keep a bottle of pomegranate molasses in the pantry so I can make the muhamma whenever I want it, and the pappa al pomodoro (made with dried-out English muffins. ), spanakorizo, and zucchini mujadara are in my regular rotation.

Buy it: Lucky Peach Presents Power Vegetables, $20

Moosewood Cookbook: 40th Anniversary Edition by Mollie Katzen

“Of a time” is how my parents always describe this book, which is a classic representation of a certain era of hippie-style, cottage cheese-heavy vegetarianism in the U.S. First published in 1977 as a collection of recipes from the Moosewood Restaurant in Ithaca, New York, it’s handwritten and illustrated, with recipes like mushroom moussaka, broccoli strudel, and gado gado that draw from many parts of the world. So what if it’s not the most hyped-up, 2020-feeling cookbook—that’s what I like about it: It feels like I’m cooking from a zine. The food is neither too sexy, serious, nor sophisticated—it’s open to my tweaks and whimsies and perfect for cooking in sweatpants for my closest friends.

Buy it: Moosewood Cookbook: 40th Anniversary Edition, $15

The Modern Cook's Year by Anna Jones

When I’m in a rut, this is first the book I flip through, knowing I’m guaranteed to land on something delicious-sounding. It’s organized by season, with 250 recipes for snacks, breakfasts, desserts, and, of course, dinners that run the gamut from aspirational (a “wedding-worthy” tomato tarte tatin) to more realistic (chard pasta with ricotta). There isn’t a recipe I haven’t bookmarked (which, yes, sorta defeats the purpose): pistachio and ricotta dumplings with peas and herbs, black sesame noodle bowl, miso-roasted squash and potatoes with kale, yellow split pea soup with green olives, chard lentil and bay leaf gratin, velvety squash broth with miso and soba. The recipes often rely a little on instinct—but with ideas and flavor combos this good, I’m happy to forgive a couple overlooked details. Just as valuable as the recipes are the supplementary informational spreads, like a guide to brewing herbal infusions, using the freezer to its full potential, making curry paste, assembling sheet-pan dinners, and composing hearty salads.

Buy it: The Modern Cook's Year, $26

Power Plates by Gena Hamshaw

I’ll argue with anyone who insists that a vegetarian diet can’t be a nutritionally-balanced one (I get enough protein, okay?). But I will concede that it does take a bit of mindfulness to make sure that a meat-free meal is satisfying: Without that, I’ll eat a bowl of creamy pasta for dinner, then wonder why I’m hungry an hour later. Which is where Gena Hamshaw comes in. A registered dietician, Hamshaw offers 100 recipes that contain the right mix of macronutrients (protein, carbohydrates, fat) to feel nourishing. That means that when I make her smoky red lentil stew with chard or pudla with spicy sautéed spinach or charred broccoli salad with freekeh and spring herbs, I don’t have to make any additional elements—it’s all there. Even when I’m not cooking from Gena’s book, this overarching question (“does my meal include a fat, protein, and carbohydrate?”) gives me the direction I need to put together something smart.

Buy it: Power Plates, $16

All products featured on Healthyish are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.


25 of Our Most Delicious Brussels Sprouts Recipes

With a snap in the air as the nights turn long, the season is signaling a big shift. This is Brussels sprout weather, and the tiny cabbages seem to surround us. They are members of the great Brassica family and close cousins to cabbages, kohlrabi, cauliflowers, kale, and broccoli. Brussels sprouts are now piled in green heaps at supermarkets, on farmers' market tables, or tucked neatly into little cardboard nests beneath coverlets of cellophane at the local grocery. Sometimes they are sold attached dramatically to their giant, sturdy stems. They'll be in season fall through February.

Because Brussels sprouts still carry with them the faintest whiff of a bad reputation, we think it's only fair to reiterate that this little crucifer deserves far, far better than the notorious boiling to which it may have been subjected in the past. The characteristic nuttiness of Brussels sprouts is preserved if they are either boiled or steamed briefly until barely tender, sautéed, or roasted. Their tiny leaves and stout hearts turn sweet in dry heat with the addition of some fat or acid, and this quality is their most appealing. If you love good crunch, raw Brussels sprouts are juicily crisp and extremely healthy. Reinterpret a classic big cabbage slaw, or pair them with avocado for contrasting softness.

When shopping for Brussels sprouts, look for bright-green sprout heads, as mushy sprouts yield less flavor. Choose sprout heads of roughly the same size so they'll cook evenly. Store unwashed Brussels sprouts in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Use them within three or four days.

There is great satisfaction in shopping and eating seasonally, and if you have waited almost a year to enjoy a crop now at market you should dive in headfirst and enjoy that vegetable thoroughly. Our recipes will help you do just that.


Egg Korma With Frizzled Onions - Recipes

2 1/2 lbs chicken legs (about 8 legs), skin removed

1 4-inch stalk lemongrass, minced

1 green chili, such as jalapeno, minced (or to taste)

1/4 cup mild curry paste (ie: korma, tikka, panang, or yellow or your favorite mild paste)

1 1/2 tbsp turbinado or grated palm sugar

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 medium red bell pepper, sliced

4 green onions, thinly sliced on the bias

1. Heat half of oil in the large saucepan or medium Dutch oven over medium to medium-high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and brown the chicken on all sides. Remove the chicken to the side.

2. Add the remaining oil. Saute the onion, garlic, lemongrass, and jalapeno until translucent and fragrant. Lower the heat to medium immediately after adding the ingredients to keep them from burning. Add curry paste and stir it into the vegetables.

3. Add the sugar and broth bring to boil and return chicken to the pan. Partially cover and cook 20 minutes.

4. After 20 minutes, remove the lid and add the peppers and carrots. Cook for 5 more minutes. Garnish with the green onions.


Top restaurants: The Herald’s 10 best places to eat from 2018

Here is a list of our favorite places to dine out in Snohomish County this year.

From Italian to Indian and Thai to Tex-Mex, 2018 proved to be a delicious year in dining reviews for the folks in Herald Features.

Features editor Sara Bruestle gets hungry just thinking about the Texas barbecued brisket, chicken and sausage she tried at the Amarillo Restaurant & Tavern in Monroe. She also wants to go back to Barkada in Edmonds for more calamansi kinilaw, which reminded her of poke and ceviche.

Reporter Sharon Salyer raved about the &ldquoutterly delightful&rdquo samosa chaat at Tasty Indian Bistro in Everett and the &ldquojust right&rdquo tiramisu at Edmonds&rsquo FIVE Restaurant.

Reporter Evan Thompson found delectable Korean-inspired dishes cooked in the French technique at Everett&rsquos 9 Delicacies and a fresh and delicious deluxe burrito ($9.95) with pork and caramel-filled churros that were dazzlingly sweet at Nacho in Lake Stevens.

&ldquoWhat&rsquos Up with That&rdquo columnist Andrea Brown adored the piggy-faced buns at Fashion Dim Sum in Edmonds and devoured a signature burger sans pickles called El Paisano at Mukilteo&rsquos Blu Burger. She doesn&rsquot like pickles on her burgers.

Here are 10 of our most memorable restaurant visits from the past year.

Tasty Indian Bistro in Everett lives up to its name

On a rainy evening after fighting through rush-hour traffic, do you really want to go home and cook?

I didn&rsquot. So I decided to try out an Everett restaurant suggested by my co-worker Janice Podsada &mdash Tasty Indian Bistro &mdash who had raved about it.

The restaurant is tucked away in a rather nondescript strip development on W Casino Road. Janice, who was joining me for dinner, told me just to look for the 76 gas station. It&rsquos a great landmark for the restaurant on a dark, rainy night.

I love Indian food and wanted to try a new dish. For an appetizer, I ordered the samosa chaat, a potato-filled pastry topped with yogurt, chickpeas and chutney ($4). It was utterly delightful. That, with another appetizer or a bowl of soup, could be a filling meal.

As my main dish, I ordered the navrattan korma, vegetables simmered in a tomato-based gravy ($10). To anyone who hasn&rsquot had a lot of experience with Indian cooking, they do take their spiciness levels seriously here. I loved it. I opted to pair my meal with the tandoori roti ($1.50), a whole wheat bread baked in a tandoori oven.

Simply put, this is one restaurant that lives up to its name: tasty.

Tasty Indian Bistro: 510 W. Casino Road, Suite A, Everett 425-267-2444 www.tastybistroeverett.com.

Piggy bun dumplings from Fashion Dim Sum in Edmonds. (Ian Terry / Herald file)

Piggy buns at Fashion Dim Sum will put a smile on your face

I was in love when I saw the piggy-faced buns that Herald assistant city news editor Rikki King posted on Instagram.

OMG! They were the cutest dumplings ever.

&ldquoInstagram gold,&rdquo Rikki said.

Dining review gold is how I saw it. The piggy buns alone were worth 1,000 words.

Rikki scored the dessert buns at Fashion Dim Sum in Edmonds on a tip from former Herald local news editor Robert Frank, a dim sum expert.

Dim sum is bite-sized portions of Chinese fare served in small steamer baskets or on small plates. Other than that (which I stole from Google), I don&rsquot know diddly-squat about dim sum.

I stared at the long order sheet, not knowing which boxes to mark on the list of some 60 items.

What would Robert and Rikki do? Rikki said her favorite dish to order at dim sum is the soup dumplings, known as xiaolongbao. Robert recommended the rice noodle rolls with dried shrimp and the chicken feet.

Fashion Dim Sum: 22923 Highway 99, Edmonds 425-697-2886 www.fashiondimsum.com.

In Mukilteo, Thai food so good you don&rsquot want it to end

This doesn&rsquot happen often enough in dining.

Having met a friend for dinner, you start to catch up as you peruse the menu and place your order.

Then the food arrives, and suddenly, all conversation stops. Not for a moment or two, but for several long minutes.

My Herald colleague, Janice Podsada, finally broke the silence as she sampled her entree of red curry with coconut milk, bell pepper, bamboo shoots, fresh basil and soft tofu ($11.95). &ldquoYou don&rsquot want this to end,&rdquo she said of the dish.

She joined me for a recent dinner at Thai Waterside in Mukilteo. I was so enjoying the salmon panang ($18.95) I simply responded: &ldquoThis is so good!&rdquo

Sometimes, the least said is all that needs to be said, you know?

Thai Waterside: 415 Lincoln Ave., Mukilteo 425-355-7393 www.thaiwaterside.com.

A pork belly plate at 9 Delicacies in Everett comes with roasted tender pork belly, scallions, garlic chips and ssam sauce. (9 Delicacies)

French technique meets Korean fusion at 9 Delicacies

Diane Kim&rsquos motto is &ldquoNo shortcuts.&rdquo

Kim is the chef-owner of 9 Delicacies, a new Korean fusion restaurant in south Everett.

My twin brother recently joined me there for dinner. While the space is too small to be a fancy, sit-down restaurant &mdash Kim opened the eatery on a shoestring budget in July &mdash 9 Delicacies truly is what it claims to be: delectable.

What it lacks in size, it makes up for in taste.

Kim&rsquos menu offers Korean-inspired dishes cooked in the French technique, from pork belly and Korean fried chicken to spicy cucumber salad and noodle slaw.

&ldquoI knew I could combine both together in a way people could have enjoyed,&rdquo Kim said. &ldquoIt doesn&rsquot matter if it&rsquos French or Korean &mdash Americans know when it&rsquos good food.&rdquo

9 Delicacies: 520 128th St. SW, Suite B8, Everett 425-512-8167 www.ninedelicacies.com.

The pineapple pork adobo is a Filipino favorite at Barkada in Edmonds. (Sara Bruestle / Herald file)

Barkada lets you travel to the islands without leaving Edmonds

Barkada brings a taste of the islands to Edmonds.

Which islands? Several of them.

The fast-casual restaurant serves a mix of Filipino-, Hawaiian, Japanese- and Pacific-Northwest-inspired dishes. (We&rsquove got some islands here, too, you know.)

&ldquoBarkada,&rdquo by the way, is Filipino slang for &ldquofriends.&rdquo

Though the kitchen at Barkada is small, owner-chef Brian Madayag serves up a large variety of dishes. He changes the menu weekly. Before you go, check out the menu on the website.

My colleague Mark Carlson and I tried two of the bestsellers on the menu: the calamansi kinilaw and the pineapple pork adobo. Both are Filipino dishes. We also ordered a sushi standby &mdash sashimi.

Barkada Edmonds: 622 Fifth Ave., Edmonds 425-670-2222 www.barkadaedmonds.com.

Lake Stevens eatery&rsquos Tex-Mex chow will fill your belly

I was in the mood for some Mexican food.

So I decided to have lunch at Nacho, a Tex-Mex restaurant in Lake Stevens. I went to Nacho by myself for this review, so I felt a duty to try as much off the menu as I could.

I ordered the deluxe burrito ($9.95) with pork, a small enchilada for $3.50 off the a la carte menu and the churros, because I&rsquove always liked those.

(By the way, everything at Nacho &mdash a family business sporting the owner&rsquos nickname &mdash is homemade.)

My burrito needed a fork. It came filled with pork, rice and beans, and was topped with melted cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, green onions and sour cream. Everything melded together deliciously. Every ingredient tasted fresh. The enchilada was just as great.

The churros were stuffed with a caramel sauce. Drizzled on top was an icing made of condensed milk and sugar. They were warm and creamy &mdash like nothing I&rsquove ever had before.

Nacho: 600 91st Ave. NE, Lake Stevens 425-397-8774.

From appetizers to dessert: FIVE full of gastronomic surprises

Going to a new restaurant somehow feels like a blind date &mdash lots of expectations but a hesitancy to emotionally invest.

Edmonds&rsquo FIVE Restaurant | Bistro didn&rsquot disappoint, from its atmosphere &mdash a comfortable place where neighborhood people come to hang out &mdash to its menu selection.

The point of this lunch was to celebrate my brother and sister-in-law&rsquos birthdays, so when our server slid the dessert menu toward us, we said &ldquoYes!&rdquo

We opted to share the tiramisu ($8). We all thought it exceeded our hopes for a celebratory dessert. Its prep includes espresso- and marsala wine-soaked lady fingers layered with a mixture of heavy whipping cream, marscapone cheese and amaretto, and dusted with ground cocoa.

My thing about desserts is they&rsquore often loaded with enough sugar to fuel a trip to the moon &mdash way too much of a good thing. But this dessert was just right.

Both by brother and sister-in-law have had tiramisu at other restaurants and gave it a big thumbs up.

FIVE Restaurant | Bistro: 650 Edmonds Way, Edmonds 425-563-7117 www.fiveedmonds.com.

The BBQ for two at Amarillo Restaurant & Tavern in Monroe comes with your choice of 3 meats and 2 sides. (Sara Bruestle / Herald file)

Named for a city in Texas, the Amarillo Restaurant serves Texas-style barbecue, but it&rsquos not in the Lone Star State. It&rsquos right here.

Owners Connie and Brian Adams opened the Amarillo Restaurant and Tavern on E. Main Street in the former tavern known as Paradise. The building is 115 years old and the original bar in back is still there.

Connie and Brian hired a chef, who they sent to Texas to learn from the pit masters, and remodeled the tavern. Inside, with its light-finished wood and metal signs, it feels very much like you&rsquove stepped into Amarillo, Texas.

On the menu is Texas-style barbecue, steaks and burgers. If you go, be ready to eat some meat. (There are salads, sandwiches, vegetarian burgers and lots of sides.) The kitchen continues to offer Campbell&rsquos recipes, which are 30 years old and were designed to complement the flavor of hickory wood.

I took The Daily Herald&rsquos Mark Carlson with me to lunch. We split the BBQ for Two ($36), which comes with your choice of three meats &mdash four ribs, a half-pound of pulled pork, brisket, corned beef, a sausage link and/or a half chicken &mdash plus two sides and two cornbread muffins. We went for the ribs, brisket and chicken and asked for three sides: coleslaw ($3), a baked sweet potato ($3) and mac and cheese ($5).

The Amarillo Restaurant & Tavern: 116 E. Main St., Monroe 360-217-8484 www.facebook.com/TheAmarillo.

Caper and Olives&rsquo bucatini pasta, handmade by chef and owner Jimmy Liang, features pancetta, red onion and egg yolk. (Evan Thompson / Herald file)

Find an Italian gem in the heart of downtown Everett

Italian cuisine doesn&rsquot get much better than Capers and Olives in downtown Everett &mdash unless you go to Italy.

My coworkers and I couldn&rsquot stop raving about the restaurant on Colby Avenue, which serves house-made pasta with seasonal ingredients in an intimate setting.

I&rsquom glad Sara Bruestle and Sharon Salyer joined me for lunch. It was a thrill to find a gem like this together.

&ldquoI haven&rsquot been this impressed with a restaurant in a long time,&rdquo Sara said.

Grab a friend or two and eat family-style so you can taste as much as possible off the menu. The three of us split two starters, three pastas and a dessert.

&ldquoI&rsquom Chinese, and that&rsquos how we eat,&rdquo owner-chef Jimmy Liang said. &ldquoIt&rsquos the same way with Italian culture. You see a big bowl of spaghetti and a big bowl of bread on the table. It&rsquos a good way to share a little bit of everything.&rdquo

Capers and Olives: 2933 Colby Ave., Everett 425-322-5280 www.capersandolives.com.

Feeling blue? Mukilteo&rsquos Blu Burger is for you. Fries, too

My partner in dining crime Ben Watanabe and I have pretty much never met a burger we didn&rsquot like.

Well, as long as it is clothed in the proper condiments, that is.

That&rsquos why we were drawn to Blu Burgers & Brew, which offers many options between the buns.

Come hungry. Signature burgers are one-third pounders, each with different enhancements.

I ordered the El Paisano ($8.95), with cilantro, roasted chilis, pepper jack cheese, grilled onions and chipotle mayo. The burger did not have pickles, which is a selling point for me. I don&rsquot want them anywhere near my buns.

Ben had the Sweet Caroline ($8.95), topped with bacon, cheddar, creamy slaw, frizzled onions and Carolina-style barbecue sauce. He also had sweet potato fries ($3.50), and a bunch of my regular fries ($2.75), plus a to-go 16-ounce Butterfinger milkshake ($5). Ben is a for-heaven&rsquos-sake-give-me-a-milkshake guy.

Blu Burgers & Brew: 9999 Harbour Place, Suite 100, Mukilteo 425-493-6900 www.bluburgersandbrew.com.

  • You can tell us about news and ask us about our journalism by emailing [email protected] or by calling 425-339-3428.
  • If you have an opinion you wish to share for publication, send a letter to the editor to [email protected] or by regular mail to The Daily Herald, Letters, P.O. Box 930, Everett, WA 98206.
Gallery

A pork belly plate at 9 Delicacies in Everett comes with roasted tender pork belly, scallions, garlic chips and ssam sauce. (9 Delicacies)

Piggy bun dumplings from Fashion Dim Sum in Edmonds. (Ian Terry / Herald file)

The BBQ for two at Amarillo Restaurant & Tavern in Monroe comes with your choice of 3 meats and 2 sides. (Sara Bruestle / Herald file)

The pineapple pork adobo is a Filipino favorite at Barkada in Edmonds. (Sara Bruestle / Herald file)

Caper and Olives&rsquo bucatini pasta, handmade by chef and owner Jimmy Liang, features pancetta, red onion and egg yolk. (Evan Thompson / Herald file)


A Food Lovers Weekend in Paris

The Paris restaurant scene has sprung back into life. That may sound like a bizarre observation considering its reputation as the gastronomic capital of the world. However, throughout the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s Paris sat haughtily on its laurels, ignoring the food revolution that was taking place from Sydney to LA. The Michelin starred establishments continued to hike up their prices serving predictable food with lots of foams, gels and ‘skid marks’ on the plates, plus liquid pearls, powders, swirls and fronds unaware or un-phased by the change in millennial eating habits and taste.

Then Daniel Rose opened Spring in 2006 and Greg Marchand followed in 2009 with Frenchie on Rue-de-Nel – a breath of fresh air, simple fresh contemporary food made with superb ingredients. The media and customers flocked eager for change and the revolution was born and so it continues.

As criticism grows about the astronomical prices and poor value for money offered by many of the Michelin starred restaurants, a whole plethora of tiny restaurants, bistros, cafés and coffee bars have sprung up all over the city, serving small plates and sharing platters of simple delicious food. I squashed into as many as possible over a busy weekend in Paris recently – most don’t take reservations so you’ll need to be prepared to queue but all of the following are worth the wait.

La Buvette on Rue Saint-Maur, not to be confused with another of my favourites, Buvette in Manhattan. This tiny restaurant chalks up the menus on a mirror on the wall – close to the tiny open kitchen. I loved the huge meltingly tender white haricot beans with cedre zest and extra virgin olive oil and a few flakes of sea salt. This was followed by a tiny burrata rolled in mandarin dust and a super coarse terrine with pickled pears and some sourdough bread. I still had room for the pickled egg with black sesame and bonita flakes. I love this kind of food, edgy and delicious but possible to recreate at home.

Sometimes you only need to be famous for just one thing….In the case of tiny Comme à Libonne on Rue du Roi de Sicile in Le Marais it’s their Portuguese custard tart. There will be a queue all along the sidewalk. They bake just 24 tarts at a time…they are snapped up like the proverbial hotcakes. If you are lucky there may be space along a tiny shelf in the shop to enjoy with a cup of espresso with your little treat.

Fed up and disheartened by ‘no shows’, many of the chicest places no longer take bookings. There was an hour and a half wait for Clamato, a seafood restaurant on Rue de Charonne. So we had a little plate of some saucisson and a couple of glasses of natural wine from their superb list at Septime, a tiny wine bar across the road.

Eventually we gave up on Clamato and had dinner at Semilla, a much talked about and now super busy restaurant serving modern French food.

Veal sweetbreads with salsify confit was the stand out dish rather better than some of the more bizarre combinations e.g. sea urchins with coffee mousse.

Watch Parisians shop, there are numerous markets around Paris, check out the nearest Farmers Markets to where you are staying by searching for Farmers Markets on Google Maps. On Sunday, the organic market on Rue Raspail is worth an amble although, quality didn’t seem as good as hitherto.

There are many coffee bars serving superb brews. Try Télescope on 5 Rue Villedo but it’s closed on Sunday. Farine & O on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoin and Ten Belles on Rue de la Grange aux Belles are also worth a detour. As is Boot Café, a hole in the wall on Rue du Pont aux Choux.

Mokonuts, on Rue Saint-Bernard is a definite favourite, can’t wait to go back for breakfast, brunch or dinner. It’s a tiny café run by Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem. Loved the labneh on toast with olives and the flatbread with sumac and melted scarmosa on top. They also make what is perhaps the best chocolate chip and oatmeal cookie I have ever eaten, plus superb coffee.

E Dehillerin on Rue Coquillière is like Hamleys or Smyths Toys for cook and chefs. Every time I visit, I feel like a kid in a candy shop surrounded by tempting cookware and gadgets in this ‘no frills’ store which has remained pretty much the same since it first opened in 1820, narrow aisles, wooden shelves and metal canisters full of superb quality utensils. Just around the corner on Rue Montmartre, you’ll find M.O.R.A., another iconic cook and bakeware store, that also sells a huge range of cake decorations and baubles for pastry chefs Both shops are geared towards culinary professionals but also welcome keen cooks.

Paris is full of exciting patisserie swing by Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie, Courou in the Marais and La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet on Rue de Castiglione

L’As du Fallafel on rue des Roses is justly famous for its falafel.

Sunday brunch was at Racines, a bistro in the charming Passage des Panoramas Arcade

A whole series of little plates of real food from the chalk board, the least ‘cheffie’ but elegantly earthy comfort food. Loved his winter tomato salad with extra virgin olive oil or the pan grilled scallops on mashed potato and dill. No swirls, pearls, powder or fronds here, just real food and a suberb natural wine list.

Breizh Café on Rue Vieille du Temple, is another good spot for breakfast or lunch….

A long weekend is nowhere long enough and I haven’t even mentioned chocolatiers, cheese shops or cocktail bars. Daily flights to Paris from Cork, Dublin, Shannon….

Yemeni Style Falafel

Sarit and Itamar shared this recipe with us at a recent visit to Ballymaloe Cookery School. They are returning this summer, see hot tips below for details…

Itamar is a quarter Yemeni on his grandfather’s side. This falafel is a tribute to that heritage, and it is great – the traditional Yemeni combo of coriander, cardamom and garlic makes it super-vibrant in colour and flavour.

Makes 20 approximately (25g/1oz weight)

1/2 onion (approx. 60g/2 1/4oz)

250g (9oz) soaked chickpeas (125g (4 1/2oz) dried)

1 green chilli, seeds and all

3 springs of parsley, picked

1 small bunch of coriander (about 15-20g/1/2 – 3/4oz), leaves and top part of stems only

1 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom pods

2 tablespoons garam flour (use plain if needs be)

To make the falafel

If using a meat grinder.

Use the coarse grinder blade if you have one we find it gives the best texture. Cut the onion and garlic into dice so that you can easily feed them through the grinder. Mince the chickpeas, onions, garlic, chilli and herbs into a bowl.

Add all the spices, salt, flour and baking powder and mix well to a very thick mass.

If using a food processor.

Start with the onion, garlic, chilli and herbs and pulse them to chop roughly, then add the chickpeas and blitz until everything becomes a thick paste with small, even-sized bits. You may need to scrape the sides down and blitz for another pulse or two to make sure that everything is evenly chopped, but do not overwork. The best way to check whether it is done enough is to scoop up a small amount and squeeze it together in your palm – it should hold its shape. If it falls apart, return it to the processor for another spin. Tip the mixture into a large bowl, add the spices, salt, flour and baking powder and mix until all is combined well.

Preheat the deep fry 170C/325F.

Test the oil temperature by placing a small piece of bread or falafel mix in the hot oil – as soon as it starts to bubble up and float, you are ready to go.

You can shape the falafel mix in a few different ways:

Use damp hands and make little balls or torpedo shapes or you can simply drop in spoonfuls of the mixture for free-form falafel. You want to be making them about the size of a walnut, no bigger, so that they cook through and crisp up at the same time.

Carefully place the falafel in the oil – don’t overcrowd the pan and fry until the exterior is browned and crisped (about 2-3 minutes). Remove to a plate covered with a paper towel to absorb the excess oil and repeat the process until you have fried them all.

Serve immediately with tahini (see recipe).

The quality of your tahini depends hugely on the type of tahini paste you use.

We use Al-Yaman from Lebanon which is delicious, but if you are lucky enough to find any of the Palestinian varieties, especially the Prince and Dove brands, you are in for a treat. As a rule, you are looking for something from Lebanon, Palestine or Turkey.

We make our tahini in a food processor, as it gives a smooth, airy, mousse-like texture, but you can achieve good results with a bowl, a spoon and some wrist action.

1 clove of garlic, peeled and minced

a pinch of salt, plus more to taste

juice of 1 lemon, plus more to taste

about 120ml (4 1/3fl oz/generous 1/2 cup) water

Place the tahini, minced garlic, salt and lemon juice in a bowl or food processor, add half the water and mix. It will go thick and pasty but don’t fear – just continue adding water while mixing until it loosens up to a creamy texture. Don’t be tempted to add too much water as the mixture will go runny, but if this happens, you can always bring it back with a little extra tahini paste. Taste and adjust salt and lemon to suit your taste buds.

You can keep tahini in an airtight container in the fridge for 2-3 days, but it will thicken and the flavour may need adjusting with a little more salt and/or lemon. As a result we think it’s best to make it and eat it the same day – fresh is best.

Recipe courtesy of ‘Honey & Co – Food from the Middle-East’.

Scallops with Dill Mash and Beurre Blanc

A delectable combination, scallops are really good at the moment.

900g (2 lbs) unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

300ml (10fl oz) creamy milk approx.

25-50g (1-2oz) butter or extra virgin olive oil

4 – 6 tablespoons freshly chopped dill

Beurre Blanc see recipe below.

Sprigs of fresh dill and dill flowers.

Slice the scallops in half and keep the corals aside, cover and chill.

First make the dill mash. Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are fully cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, mash while hot (see below). (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).

While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 300ml (10fl oz/1 1/4 cups) of milk to the boil. Add enough boiling creamy milk into the hot mashed potato to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, add the freshly chopped dill and then beat in the butter or olive oil, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Keep hot. Next make the beurre blanc.

Note: If the potatoes are not peeled and mashed while hot and if the boiling milk is not added immediately, the potato will be lumpy and gluey.

Heat a non stick pan. Sprinkle the scallops with a little flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook the scallops for 1 minute on each side, until they are barely coloured.

Spoon a dollop of hot dill mash on each plate. Scatter 5 – 6 pieces of scallop and 2 pieces of coral on top of the mash.

Drizzle some Beurre Blanc over the top and around the edge, add a few sprigs of dill and dill flowers if you have them and serve.

Beurre Blanc Sauce

Beurre blanc is super rich, however a little served with freshly poached fish is exquisite.

3 tablespoons dry white wine

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

pinch of ground white pepper

175g (6oz) unsalted butter, diced

salt, freshly ground pepper

freshly squeezed lemon juice

Put the first four ingredients into a heavy stainless steel saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and reduce down to about a tablespoon. Add 1 generous tablespoon of cream and reduce again until the cream begins to thicken. Whisk in the chilled butter a couple of piece at a time, keeping the sauce just warm enough to absorb the butter. Season with salt, taste and add a little lemon juice if necessary. Strain through a fine sieve. Transfer to a pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot but not boiling water. Keep warm until needed.

Keep warm in a flask until needed. Beurre Blanc can curdle if the pan gets too hot. If this should happen put 1-2 tablespoons of cream into a clean saucepan, reduce to about half, then vigorously whisk in the curdled mixture, little by little. Serve as quickly as possible. The flavour will be a little ‘softer’ so a little more lemon juice may be needed to sharpen it up and cut the richness.

Labneh on Sourdough Toast with Za’atar and Olives

This is my interpretation of the delicious Labneh Toast at Mokonuts in Paris.

2 slices of sourdough bread

4 tablespoons of Labneh (dripped natural yoghurt) (see recipe below)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 black Kalamata olives, halved and stoned

1 generous teaspoon chopped pistachio nuts

First mix the za’atar, with the oil, chopped pistachio nuts, a pinch of Aleppo pepper and a little flaky sea salt.

Toast or pan grill the sourdough bread, rub with a cut clove of garlic. Spread with a generous layer of labneh, drizzle with the za’atar oil, add 4 black olive halves. Serve immediately.

Labneh (dripped natural yoghurt)

Use whole-milk yogurt for a creamier cheese – this can be made from cow’s, sheep’s or goat’s milk. You can also use commercial yogurt.

Makes 500g (18oz) labneh approx.

1kg (2 1/4lb) natural yoghurt

To make the labneh, line a strainer with a double thickness of sterilised cheesecloth. Place it over a bowl. Pour in the yogurt. Tie the four corners of the cheesecloth to make a loose bundle and suspend the bag of yogurt over a bowl.

Leave it in a cool place to drip into the bowl for 8 hours. Jersey milk yogurt is thicker and needs only 2–3 hours to drip. Then remove the cheesecloth and put the labneh in a bowl. Refrigerate overnight, and store until needed in a covered glass or plastic container. The liquid whey that has drained off can be fed to pigs or hens or used for fermented dishes and in whey lemonade.

Portuguese Custard Tarts

2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Lightly grease 2 x 12 muffin tins.

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas Mark 8.

Put the egg, yolk, sugar and cornflour in a saucepan and whisk, gradually add the milk and whisk until smooth.

Cook on a medium heat and stirring constantly with a whisk until the mixture thickens and comes to the boil, continue to cook for 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat, stir in the vanilla extract.

Transfer to a Pyrex bowl, allow to cool. Cover with cling film to prevent a skin from forming – prick here and there to allow steam to escape.

Roll the chilled puff pastry into a 3mm (1/8 inch) thick sheet, stamp out 7.5cm (3 inch) discs. Press into the muffin tins.

Spoon a generous dessertspoon of the cool custard into each pastry case. Bake in the preheated oven for 16-20 minutes or golden on top. Allow to cool in the tins for 5 minutes then remove to a wire rack. Eat warm or at room temperature.

Mokonuts’ Cookies

Dorie Greenspan managed to discover the secret of these cookies and shared it in the New York Times so here you go.

Once the dough is made and formed into balls, it should be refrigerated overnight before baking. Fresh from the oven, the cookies are fragile they firm as they cool. They’ll keep for about three days at room temperature or they can be frozen for up to two months in either case, they should be wrapped well.

¾ teaspoon sea salt (grind in a pestle)

80g moist, plump dried cranberries (plump in hot water)

110g bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chunks (62%)

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4.

Mix the rye flour, plain white flour, baking powder, fine sea salt and baking soda in a bowl.

Cream the soft butter and both sugars together in a food mixer. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the egg, and beat well for a minute or two. Reduce the speed, add the dry ingredients, then mix until all the dry ingredients are incorporated. Then add the poppy seeds, cranberries and chocolate.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 15 – 20 pieces, roll each piece into a ball (40g approx.) and arrange on the baking sheet leaving space for expansion, about 5cm (2 inch).

Note: Cover, and refrigerate the dough for an hour or better still overnight or for up to 3 days. (If you’d like, you can wrap the balls airtight and freeze them for up to 1 month. Defrost them overnight in the fridge before baking.)

Sprinkle each cookie with a little flaky salt.

Bake for 10 minutes, pull the baking sheet from the oven and, using a metal spatula, a pancake turner or the bottom of a glass, tap each cookie lightly. Let the cookies rest on the sheet for 3 minutes, then carefully transfer them to a wire rack. Repeat with the remaining dough, always using cold dough and a cool baking sheet.

Serve after the cookies have cooled for about 10 minutes, or wait until they reach room temperature.


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