Traditional recipes

The New Black

The New Black

Ingredients

  • 1/4 ounce absinthe

  • 2 ounces rye whiskey

  • 1/2 ounce Averna Amaro

  • Dash orange or Angostura bitters

  • 1 1-inch-wide strip lemon zest

Recipe Preparation

  • Place absinthe in a chilled old-fashioned glass and swirl to coat glass. Combine rye, Averna, bitters, and 1/2 cup ice in a mixing glass or a cocktail shaker; stir until outside of shaker is frosty, about 1 minute. Strain into prepared glass. Squeeze lemon zest over drink to release oils and add to glass.

Reviews Section


16 Black Chefs Changing Food in America

When Ashleigh Shanti, 29, journeyed across the country on a six-month sabbatical last year, she decided that her next step as a chef needed to fulfill a critical desire: cooking food that celebrated her heritage as a black woman from the South and rebuffed assumptions about what that food could be.

For hummus, she replaced chickpeas with black-eyed peas, and instead of tahini, used fermented benne seeds, an African staple. Her cabbage pancake played on okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese dish. Her buttermilk cornbread soup paid tribute to her grandmother, who would put leftover crumbs of cornbread into buttermilk and drink it.

Those are just some of the dishes featured at Benne on Eagle, in Asheville, N.C., that have helped Ms. Shanti become one of the many black chefs across the country who are considered new leaders in the food world, making their voices heard in new ways. These chefs have crushed the notion that the food they cook must be rooted in the American South.

At the same time, they have pushed their way past the Eurocentric traditions that many absorbed in culinary school. They are reflecting Africa and its diaspora in their kitchens, using techniques from places like Nigeria, Brazil, Morocco, Trinidad and Tobago, and ingredients like conch, berbere, fonio and cassava.

“In culinary school, I learned to cook at a very high level,” said JJ Johnson of Henry at Life Hotel restaurant in Manhattan. “In Ghana, I learned who I was and what I should be doing with my life.”

The spotlight, many say, is long overdue. Black cooks have historically seen their foods and techniques co-opted, getting little credit for their influence on America’s culinary traditions. “There have always been black hands in American food,” said Jerome Grant, the chef at Sweet Home Café in the National Museum of African American History and Culture.

But this new vanguard is working to make sure that its ascent is more than a passing moment.

The Washington chef Jerome Grant said his military upbringing helped him adapt to the strict hierarchy of restaurant kitchens.

T.J. Kirkpatrick for The New York Times

Ashleigh Shanti leads the kitchen at Benne on Eagle in Asheville, N.C.

Logan R. Cyrus for The New York Times

“It’s up to us to be transparent with our information and our techniques, and pass along to the next generation,” said Mashama Bailey, executive chef and partner at The Grey in Savannah, Ga., and the winner of this year’s James Beard award for Best Chef: Southeast. “We got to kind of strike while the iron’s hot right now.”

[Race affects our lives in countless ways. To read more provocative stories on race from The Times, sign up here for our weekly Race/Related newsletter.]

Last year, just over 17 percent of chefs and head cooks were black, about five percentage points higher than their representation in the entire work force, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The number of black-owned eating and drinking establishments increased by nearly 50 percent between 2007 and 2012, according to an analysis of census data by the National Restaurant Association.

And even though black chefs remain underrepresented in fine dining, they are getting new recognition. Before last year, black chefs had gone 14 years without winning in any of the best chef or outstanding restaurant categories of the James Beard awards — the Oscars of the restaurant industry. But over the past two years, six black chefs have won in those categories.

The country’s broad focus on racial equality and the political conversation around uplifting marginalized communities have also helped to increase the visibility and opportunities that black chefs are receiving, several said. Technology and social media have allowed them to promote themselves, even when no one else would. And they are benefiting from more diners being willing to explore unfamiliar foods.

“There’s kind of this movement that’s happening rapidly where black chefs are at the helm,” Ms. Shanti said. “People are paying attention. I feel like that’s really awesome. I want to be a part of that.”

Yet even in this moment of awareness, many black chefs, including those who have received awards and praise, say they sometimes still feel boxed in. Diners often look past them when asking to compliment the chef. Eyes still go wide when people see them cooking Mexican, Japanese or just about anything that’s not considered soul food. They still have to navigate the same racial politics as other black professionals.

Kiki Bokungu Louya, a co-owner of Folk, a cafe in Detroit, said that even in her own restaurant, “people just look right through me to the first white male” to find a person in authority. They also assume that she is responsible only for the African-influenced food on the diverse menu.

“If it doesn’t have an African peanut stew or fufu, they assume I may not have created it,” said Ms. Louya, 36, who is of Congolese descent.

The key to maintaining the current momentum, the chefs say, is working to address lingering barriers and stereotypes. Restaurant investors and the food media remain largely white, and those two sectors have significant influence over the fate of chefs and restaurants.

“Until there’s some sort of representation in those spaces, stories of black history, black chefs and black cuisine will just be trend pieces that mark a moment that can fade at any time,” said Clay Williams, a photographer and co-founder of Black Food Folks, an organization for black professionals in the food industry.

Ms. Shanti, who is the chef de cuisine at Benne on Eagle but has full control over the menu, got her opportunity only after John Fleer, a renowned chef in North Carolina, asked her to run the kitchen at a restaurant he was opening in a historically black neighborhood reshaped by gentrification.

When developers approached Mr. Fleer, who is white, and asked him to open a restaurant, he said he would only do it if the restaurant told the story of the once thriving African-American community, a vision that aligned with Ms. Shanti’s.

“My hope would be that the next time an opportunity like this happens, in Asheville or somewhere else, that a black chef is approached directly, and that I’m not put in the position of being the woke person who just happened to get asked the right question or be presented with the right opportunity,” Mr. Fleer said.

Ms. Shanti had a business plan for a restaurant before Mr. Fleer came along, in keeping with the independent spirit held by many of these black chefs.

Kia Damon said it was inspiring to see many of her contemporaries thriving, yet she worried that some restaurants embraced the image of diversity rather than its substance.

Just months after arriving at Lalito, a Cali-Latin restaurant in New York, Ms. Damon went from sous chef to head chef. She was only 24 at the time, and it was a moment of great fanfare. Yet when she wanted to remake the menu, the owners seemed reluctant to embrace the food that she wanted to cook, she said.

“Toward the end, it really started to feel like I was just a cool, black, queer face to bring other cool, black, queer faces,” said Ms. Damon, now 25, who left Lalito in June and said she learned a lot from the experience.

Ben Dos Remedios, a co-owner of Lalito, said they had supported Ms. Damon in most of what she did, but that they were not open to her completely overhauling the menu because they already had an established reputation.

If there’s one thing that unites these chefs, it’s their shared belief that they don’t need to conform in order to succeed. To account for the wealth disparities in America and to encourage conversation, Tunde Wey did pop-ups in which he charged white diners higher prices than others.

“I think with chefs like myself getting recognition, getting a platform, it definitely lends to more people looking for other people who look like me, which is great,” said Kwame Onwuachi, 29, chef and owner of Kith and Kin in Washington and the winner of this year’s James Beard award for Rising Star Chef of the Year.

“It’s moving in a great direction,” he added. “But nothing changes overnight.”

Here are all 16 chefs, listed alphabetically:

Oriana Koren for The New York Times


Liberation and Libations: A Celebration of Black American History in a Shot Glass

A few weeks ago, I was watching “Moonshiners,” a docudrama series about illegal liquor makers (most of whom are white and male) and their lives in Appalachia. I was intrigued when the show suddenly introduced a Black moonshiner from Louisiana, who talked about the history of moonshining in the Louisiana bayou and how their regional recipes came to be.

In his part of America, moonshining history has roots in Blackness. After that episode, I was all in. I wanted to learn everything I could about the history of Black liquor making in America. And with Juneteenth approaching, I want us to celebrate this history as fully as possible, drinks and all! So grab a glass and let’s uncork it.

I started my research with Kenneth Christmon’s “Historical Overview of Alcohol in the African American Community.” I’ve learned so much from his work, which starts at pretty much the beginning.

Black wine and beer making traces back to precolonial Africa, with palm wine and beer that was typically made from millet, guinea corn, or barley. These drinks were integral to many religious and secular ceremonies, including ancestral devotions, sacrifices for a good harvest, and more. And of course, there was plenty of turn-up time too.

The history of alcohol in the United States is deeply connected to the Transatlantic slave trade, specifically through rum. The selling and trading of enslaved Africans, molasses (which most rum is made from), and rum itself was a lifeline in keeping the slave trade alive and well.

As this was happening, laws were also being passed to prevent Black Americans (enslaved or free) from being able to drink alcohol. For example, in New Jersey in 1692, a statute prevented white people from selling rum to Black people — if they did, they would receive a 5-pound penalty. Laws and restrictions like these only got more intense after the Civil War and after Black people were freed from their oppressors.

But even through all this oppression, the Black wine and spirits community carved its way into history. And that’s what I want to celebrate this Juneteenth.

While much of known Black wine and liquor history is predominantly male, times are changing fast. I spoke to the owners of three Black-owned wine and spirits businesses that you can support this Juneteenth. They even shared some of their exclusive recipes to get the party started.

Increasing the awareness of Black liquor history is one of the reasons Andrew Albert created New Orleans-based Exclave Spirits, a family-run whiskey brand, in October 2020.

“I wish people knew how integral Black people have been to the spirits craft throughout history,” says Nicholas Albert, Andrew’s brother and business partner. “Exclave was created with a simple goal: uncovering and paying homage to these contributions.”

You’ll come for the reverently made booze but stay for the community-enriching extras. Exclave donates a portion of all proceeds to The Michael James Jackson Foundation to fund the education of Black brewers and distillers.

When you’re ready to try a bottle, I recommend this recently released 3-year-aged bourbon that has some serious caramel, cinnamon, and vanilla notes.

Black liquor history is still being made on a regular basis, as is evident in the origin story of Anteel Tequila, which was founded in 2018.

“I truly did not know that I was the first Black woman [in the world] to own or co-own a tequila brand,” says Nayana Ferguson. “It was not until about a year later that my husband, after some research, discovered this. I think my presence in the liquor industry shows my consumers that if you truly want something in life, you should go after it and not let anything stop you.”

Nayana wants people to feel inspired when they think about (and drink) Anteel Tequila. As a cancer survivor and mom, she’s all about uplifting and empowering her community (and hopefully changing the narrative on tequila for those who have horror stories).

Aamira Garba is a sommelier-in-training (who just completed her WSET 3 Exam), a mama of two, and the owner of LoveLee Wine. According to a 2020 estimate by Phil Long, president of the Association of African American Vintners, just 0.01 percent of American wineries are Black-owned.

But when asked about Black representation in the wine industry, Aamira was quick to say, “We are here! I keep meeting new people, discovering new wines, all by Black folks. The percentage is still quite small in reference to the entire industry, but the growth is inspiring and I can’t wait to see how much we infiltrate over the next few years.”

Shayna Conde is an NYC-based freelance writer of West Indian descent with a passion for bringing communities together and highlighting Black-owned businesses.


15 Burgers to Drool Over For 4th Of July And Beyond

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Linda is the co-founder and chief growth officer at Cart.com, a Series-A e-commerce technology platform that partners with brands to help them grow. Linda served as head of growth at Sitari Ventures where she oversaw strategy and operations. She has acquired and advised tech and consumer companies as a private equity investor at global firms including The Riverside Company and Lazard. Additionally, Linda spent a brief stint on the team launching Uber Freight. She loves all things food and plants.

Stephanie Cartin, Social Media Expert + Entrepreneur

An entrepreneur at heart, Stephanie walked away from her corporate career in 2012 to follow her passion to launch Socialfly, a leading social-first digital and influencer marketing agency based in New York City. Socialfly has since blossomed to over 30 full-time employees and has been named to Inc. 5000's fastest growing private companies two years in a row. The agency has worked with over 200 well-known brands including Girl Scouts, WeTV, Conair, Nest Fragrances, 20th Century Fox and Univision. Stephanie is the co-host of the Entreprenista Podcast and co-author of Like, Love, Follow: The Entreprenista's Guide to Using Social Media To Grow Your Business. She is also a recent recipient of the SmartCEO Brava award, which recognizes the top female CEOs in New York and a Stevie Award for Women Run Workplace of the Year.

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The New Black-and-White Cookie

Quick: Chocolate or vanilla? You&rsquore in luck, because with this recipe you get to have both. In our riff on the classic black-and-white cookie, we don&rsquot frost a cake-like base with the two flavors. Instead, we make each cookie from half vanilla dough with chocolate chips and half chocolate dough with vanilla chips. This way, you&rsquore guaranteed a little of both in every bite.

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

⅓ cup mini white chocolate chips (optional)

⅓ cup mini semisweet chocolate chips (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter with the sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla extract and mix to combine, scraping well to ensure it is incorporated.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the salt, baking soda and baking powder to combine. Add the flour mixture to the mixer and mix on low speed until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

4. Remove half the dough (about 2 cups) from the mixer and transfer it to a large bowl.

5. Add the cocoa powder to the dough remaining in the mixer mix to combine. Add the white chocolate chips, if using, and mix to incorporate.

6. Add the semisweet chocolate chips, if using, to the reserved dough in the bowl and mix with a spatula to combine.

7. Divide the chocolate and vanilla doughs into tablespoon-sized scoops. Take a scoop of each flavor, press them together and roll lightly. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and press lightly. Repeat with the remaining dough, leaving at least ½ inch between each cookie on the baking sheet.

8. Bake the cookies until they are golden around the edges, 7 to 9 minutes. Cool before serving. The cookies can be kept for up to a week at room temperature in an airtight container.


Recipe: Blackened Seasoning

Bryant Terry, “Vegetable Kingdom”

Ingredients
2 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted
2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
11/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
11/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon whole white peppercorns
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

Method
Combine all the ingredients in a mortar or spice grinder and grind into a fine powder. Transfer to a jar and seal tightly. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

“Reprinted with permission from Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes by Bryant Terry, copyright© 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.”


BBQ Tofu Bowl with Collard Greens

Courtesy of My Darling Vegan

If you put the South in a bowl and made it both vegan and gluten-free, this is what you'd get. It's a combination of smoky barbecue-marinated tofu, steamed collard greens, cooked rice, and beans whose deep flavor belies the small amount of time and effort involved. The side serving of ranch dressing is "optional," but we think you'll welcome it as a creamy anecdote to the bold dish.

Get the recipe from My Darling Vegan.


  • Yes, omit the bacon and ham.
  • Add 1 large or 2 small ham hocks to the pot at the beginning of cooking time.
  • When the cooking time is up, remove the ham hocks, shred the meat (discard fat).
  • Degrease the fat from the top of the peas by placing a paper towel over the grease and removing quickly.
  • Add the shredded ham to the slow cooker. Stir and serve.
  • Omit the bacon and ham
  • Use water instead of chicken broth
  • Add 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • Add 1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke
  • Add more salt at the end of cooking time to make up for the saltiness in the ham and bacon.

New Year's Black Eyed Peas

Southern U.S. tradition dictates that eating black eyed peas on New Year's will bring luck and good fortune. Often served with cabbage or collard greens (meant to represent that dolla dolla bill, y'all), black eyed peas are seen as symbolic stand-ins for coins and financial prosperity. So if you want to make it rain this new year, you had better eat up all these delicious beans, along with a slice or two of golden cornbread to lock down that wealth and health for good measure.

The origin stories

Different birth stories exist for this tradition. The first version is popular, albeit historically improbable: During the Civil War, having swept through and ravaged the Confederate Army's food supplies, the Union Army largely had ignored the fields of undesirable black eyed peas, which were then primarily a food for livestock. Left with little else to eat, Southerners relied on this filling ingredient to survive the winter despite the challenging wartime conditions, and black eyed peas went down in history as a lifesaving grace.

The second origin story takes place around the same era, and also tells a story of triumph and perseverance. Also known as the cowpea, black eyed peas are an Old World crop that was brought by enslaved Africans from their homeland. When enslaved people were officially freed on January 1, 1863 under the Emancipation Proclamation, they ate black eyed peas&mdashby then a staple in their diet&mdashto celebrate the momentous occasion of their liberation.

While no one really knows how this tradition came about, I'm okay with following it blindly. For one, I love my legumes and have no problem eating beans for every meal every day. And if there's a chance that it can bring me good luck, all the better&mdashgoodness knows I need it this year.

To maximize your fortune, some believe you must eat 365 peas: one pea for every day of the year, to guarantee that every day will be a good day. I say, why stop there? This pot of beans might be so good, you'll want to hog all the luck to yourself.

The recipe basics

Similar to the soul food classic Hoppin' John but without the rice component, these black eyed peas are cooked with a little bit of onion, garlic, spices, and a hunk of fatty salted pork for depth of flavor and a hint of smokiness. You can use anything from fatback and hog jowls to ham hock and slab bacon&mdashor if you don't like pork products, opt instead for some smoked turkey. In the tradition of making do with what you have, I used smoked pork neckbones in my version because it's simply what my store had in stock!

After bringing everything to a simmer, cover the pot with a lid slightly ajar and let it stew away for 35 to 40 minutes, until the beans are tender and creamy. After that, remove the lid and let the broth reduce to your desired consistency&mdashit can be as soupy or thick as you like it! Serve with a dash of hot sauce, cornbread, and greens, and let the good times roll.

If you've made this recipe, leave us a comment down below to let us know how you liked it! For more legume goodness, check out these 25+ black bean recipes!


‘Orange Is The New Black’: Celebrate Season 6 With Themed Cocktail Recipes

The countdown to the release of Season 6 of “Orange Is the New Black” has officially begun! It’s only a matter of time before fans are reunited with Piper, Red, Taystee and the rest of the inmates at Litchfield as they adjust to their new lives in maximum security.

Instead of just inviting your pals over to stream the newest episodes, turn your “OITNB” binge session into a fun viewing party featuring delicious drinks. With the addition of a few alcoholic beverages, you can turn your basic shindig into a boozy extravaganza.

Consider trying these six cocktail recipes when “Orange Is the New Black” Season 6 is released July 27 on Netflix.

Piper’s Paloma

Toast to the inmates at Litchfield with Piper’s Paloma. Photo: Courtesy of Tequila CAZADORES Ingredients:

Before settling into your “OITNB” marathon, combine all of the ingredients together over ice and use a slice of lime to garnish your cocktail.

Jailbreak Margarita

An “OITNB” viewing party wouldn’t be complete without this tasty margarita featuring agave nectar and fresh lime. Photo: Courtesy of Tequila CAZADORES

  • 1 ½ oz. Tequila CAZADORES Blanco
  • ½ oz. Orange Curacao
  • 2 oz. Blood Orange Juice
  • 3/4 oz. Fresh Lime Juice
  • 3/4 oz. Agave Nectar

Add the ingredients and ice to a cocktail shaker and shake until cold. Serve the finished product on the rocks and don’t forget to use Manny’s salt on the rim.

Enjoy a glass of Big Boo(ze) while watching the newest episodes of “Orange is the New Black” Season 6. Photo: Courtesy of Tequila CAZADORES

  • 1 ½ oz. Tequila CAZADORES Reposado
  • 3 oz. Orange Juice
  • ¼ oz. Grenadine
  • 1 Lime Wedge Squeeze

This mouthwatering recipe crafted by Manny Hinojosa, the global brand ambassador of Tequila CAZADORES, uses a Collins glass as the base to combine all of the ingredients over ice. Top the drink with grenadine and garnish the finished cocktail with a cherry and orange.

The Dark Side

Embrace all of those OMG moments from “OITNB” Season 6 with this charcoal infused cocktail. Photo: Courtesy of 1 Hotel South Beach

  • 1.5 oz Charcoal Infused Ilegal Mezcal
  • 3/4 oz Giffard Pamplemousse
  • 3/4 oz Lime Garnish with grapefruit wheel
  • Grapefruit Wheel

This popular drink, available at WATR at 1 Rooftop, requires the ingredients to be added to a shaking tin filled with ice. Once combined, shake for 10 seconds before straining the contents over ice into a rocks glass. Complete your drink by using a thinly sliced grapefruit wheel as a garnish.

The Rebellion

Consider serving The Rebellion in honor of “Orange is the New Black” Season 6. Photo: Courtesy of Monkitail

  • 1.5 oz Bulleit Bourbon
  • .5 oz Lillet
  • 1 oz Lemon Juice
  • .75 oz Ginger Syrup
  • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters
  • 1-inch pc Rosemary

Pour all of the ingredients into a shaker filled with ice. Shake, and strain the drink over a rocks glass filled with pebble ice. Garnish your beverage with a piece of rosemary.

Blood Orange Margarita

Quench your thirst with this delicious Blood Orange margarita. Photo: Courtesy of Duffy’s Sports Grill

  • 1.5 ounces of Casa Herradura, Double Reposado Tequila
  • 4 ounces of Blood Orange Juice
  • ½ Lime, Fresh Squeezed
  • Kosher Salt
  • Blood Orange, slices for garnish

Salt the rim of a margarita glass and fill it up with ice before setting it aside. Then fill a cocktail shaker tin with ice and add in the tequila, blood orange juice and squeezed lime. Shake well before straining the finished cocktail into the salt-rimmed margarita glass.


Watch the video: Mix Musica de Moda 2021 Las Mejores Canciones Actuales 2021 Junio (December 2021).